Hiking in Fenqihu, Taiwan

Re-aligning

It’s crazy to say, but the world has changed a lot in the 3 months since I wrote and published my 2020 goals. Two rather large events have affected my world and, I think, the world at large:

  • The acquittal of Donald Trump by the US Senate, and Trump’s apparent subsequent emboldening of his–as I view them–democracy-eroding behavior.
  • The advent of COVID-19, and the entirely world essentially shutting down for the first time because of it.

I will need to revise a few of my goals in light of these happenings.

Getting Politically Involved

First, regarding Donald Trump: I am very, very concerned about what it means about our government that Donald Trump was acquitted without considering the full range of evidence and testimony. I am also very alarmed by Trump’s subsequent actions, which seem to indicate that he sees his acquittal as a free pass to double-down on many of his already concerning behaviors.

In particular, I increasingly feel that the government and the system that runs America today does not reflect the Constitution upon which the country was founded. Much of the Constitution was framed with the hope that honor and duty to country and to its founding ideals would trump–pun not intended–personal and partisan interests and loyalties. I believe that the Senate’s vote to acquit Trump without reviewing the full range of evidence and testimony is a clear sign that the Senate has failed to perform its intended function. It also says to me that many members of our government aren’t in office to uphold the ideals of our nation, and are instead clearly working in service of something else, likely their own personal thirst for wealth or power.

Additionally, Trump’s actions following his acquittal have me concerned that he sees this as a condonement of his already rather alarming behavior, and an invitation to be more even more flagrant in his abuse of power. We’ve watched him remove “disloyal” government officials and employees, and continue to attempt to consolidate power in the executive branch. Combined with the knowledge that many members of our legislative branch have shown themselves to be self-interested, I now worry about the idea of collusion between these two corrupt branches to permanently consolidate this power in ways that can only be fundamentally counter to what democracy–and particularly American democracy–is meant to be.

In short, I worry now that American democracy may be reaching the end of its life, and that time is truly running out to save it. I worry a little that Trump will find an excuse to stay in power, even against the will of the people. I worry very much that a national or international crisis like, for example, COVID-19 is all it might take for some people to willingly handover power to some of these more subversive government elements.

If what I’m saying seems alarmist or extreme, then, well, I very much hope that I am wrong and that I am overreacting. Because if I’m right, we may already be fucked.

How does all of this relate back to my goals? I cannot, in good conscience, ignore what is happening back home right now. This year’s presidential election is going to be pivotal, and I’ve come to realize that I will regret it if all that I fear comes to pass and I sat by and did nothing. I have been very seriously considering returning to the US in July to volunteer and participate in campaigns as much as I can. As a nomadic individual, I have a degree of mobility that most people do not, and I see this as an asset I can use. I could, for example, pick a few battleground states to live in and continue “nomading” within the US while doing important political work. Doing so will have a significant effect on my goals, as many of them will become unrealistic and will need to be revised.

COVID-19

However, as COVID-19 spreads and the world essentially shuts down, I am less and less convinced that it will make sense for me to return to the States to participate in campaign season in person, particularly because I doubt very much that it will be a good idea to have people traveling from state to state knocking on doors or congregating in large political rallies. Regardless, I do expect to devote some of my time to the political fight between now and November, though I’ll likely have to find ways to contribute remotely.

Of course, COVID-19 affects a lot of my other goals adversely as well. Realistically speaking, I foresee that I won’t really be able to travel for at least the next 6 months, if not for the rest of 2020. I think there are only two conditions that lead to the world opening up again: 1) we reach a point where expected case counts are within the tolerances of what our healthcare systems can handle, even with laxed containment measures or 2) a vaccine is approved and widely distributed. Since a vaccine isn’t realistically going to become available for at least 12-18 months, condition #2 isn’t something I think we’ll all end up waiting around for. (Plus, you have to consider that even after a vaccine is developed, tested, and approved, it will take a significant amount of time and resources to produce it en mass and distribute it to the populace.) So, realistically, condition #1 could start to happen in the next 6 months, but likely only in countries that handled their initial response well.

An unfortunate, and likely less-oft considered side-effect of all of this is that anti-Asian racism will also likely limit my ability to travel outside of Asia, potentially for a long time after COVID-19 is no longer public enemy #1. Already, I’m hearing reports of discrimination, and sometimes even outright physical assault against Asians even in Europe and the United States. I can only imagine what things will look like in less progressive parts of the world like Central and South America or Africa.

Changes to 2020 Goals

The reality of the situation is that I need to be prepared to hunker down somewhere, and likely for as long as a year. Right now that place is Taipei, Taiwan, where I just completed 14 days of self-quarantine. Depending on the situation, I am considering the idea of pursuing a 1-year entrepreneurship visa in Taiwan so that I can legally stay here to weather COVID-19.

So, realistically speaking, I won’t be doing any of the following this year:

  • Spend 3 months in Japanese-speaking countries
  • Attending the olympics in Tokyo, Japan
    • In actuality, I also wasn’t able to secure affordable tickets anyway, but now I feel less bad about not going haha…
  • Spend some time at a Plum Village location in Asia
    • I actually had planned to go to Plum Village in Thailand in March, but my retreat was cancelled by the monastery due to growing concerns over COVID-19

The following goals are likely to be harder to execute this year:

  • Learn to talk to attractive women
    • Dating and social interaction isn’t exactly encouraged during these strange times
  • Learn French
    • I am a strong believer in immersion and, while I can continue to practice French here in Taiwan, I don’t know that it makes sense to make it a focus for 3 months the way I had intended to before
  • Exercise
    • I’ll still be able to exercise, but due to COVID-19 I will likely need to find alternatives to going to the gym and lifting weights for a while.

Otherwise, though, most of my goals look to be location-independent, and perhaps don’t require that much extra adjusting. I don’t think I’m going to add anything drastically new to make up for what COVID-19 has made impossible, but since a few of my language goals have been affected, and I’m likely to end up with an extended stay in Taiwan, so I think will redouble my efforts in both Chinese and Japanese, though without modifying the existing OKRs too much.

Here are the edits I’m making to my OKRs (red items are being removed, green items are being added):

  • Learn to talk to attractive women
    • OKR: Create and complete a 30-day challenge for myself with challenges sourced from friends
    • OKR: Complete the challenges from Rules of the Game
    • OKR: Delete all dating apps, and don’t use them for the entire year
  • Deepen my mindfulness practice
    • Meditate more
      • Habit: Use Headspace to meditate every day shortly after waking up
    • OKR: Spend some time at a Plum Village location in Asia
  • Learn French
    • OKR: Pass a B2 language test in French
      • I’m thinking I might take this in Hanoi, where official French language tests can be found at a discount
    • Spend 3 months focused on learning French
      • OKR: Log at least 4.5 hours of conversation or class time each week.
        • If I like this model, I may consider implementing it in other countries for other languages. Thus far I’ve been hesitant to sign-up for classes due to cost and concerns that classes might move too slowly or fail to fit with some of my existing language learning workflows.
  • Learn Japanese
    • OKR: Memorize the first 600-1000 most common words in Japanese
    • OKR: Spend 3 months in Japanese-speaking countries
    • OKR: Complete the Duolingo Japanese program
      • Add all new words and sentence patterns  introduced by this program to Anki
  • Learn Chinese
    • OKR: Spend 3 months in Chinese-speaking countries
    • OKR: Complete the Duolingo Chinese program
      • Add all new words and sentence patterns introduced by this program to Anki
    • Habit: Add at least 30 new Chinese Anki cards a day for the duration of my stay in Taiwan
  • Improve my health
    • Get back into shape
      • Get lean
        • Reach 10% body fat
          • Habit: Measure body composition every day so I can tell if current efforts are working
          • Habit: Track the foods I eat every day so I can correlate diet to fat loss
        • Habit: Take a full set of body circumference measurements once a week
      • OKR: Find a training program I feel I can trust and stick to it unless body composition results show I’m not moving toward where I want to go. Re-evaluate programs every ~12 weeks.
      • OKR: Find a diet plan and stick to it long enough to evaluate results.
  • Learn to play the ukulele
    • Habit: Practice at least 10 minutes a day for at least 3 months

I am cautiously adding the ukulele to this list of goals because I’ve been traveling with a ukulele for a while now, and feel I haven’t been making good use of it. I’d like to see if I can get to a point where I feel good about my ukulele skills so I can decide whether or not to continue to bring it with me on my travels. This also feels like a fun skill to pick-up now that I’m dropping most of my previous social commitments due to COVID-19. It would probably be better to practice 20 minutes a day, but I’m going to make the requirement lower than that just to get myself to dedicate mental space for it every day. My guess is that most days I’ll be having fun and end up practicing closer to 20 minutes each day anyway.

For exercise in Q2, I’m going to complete a 12-week half marathon program. My rationale is that, since I can’t really go to the gym, running is a natural fallback for me, since it’s always been my primary sport. Running will hopefully also pair well with my fat loss goals, since running long distances at slower speeds supposedly helps to burn fat. On average, training for a half marathon isn’t too time consuming (generally less than an hour per day, except for one longer day a week), and the program I’ve chosen has a good mix of intensity balanced with distance, so I’ll still feel like I’m working myself hard.

For cross training days while I follow this program, I plan to do some bodyweight HIIT targeting my upper body, since I won’t be working it as frequently as I had been this quarter. On rest days, I’ll likely also make sure to do a short abdominal workout routine so all my bases are covered.

For diet this quarter, I would like to try to stick to the slow-carb program and see how it works for me. Q1’s diet plan was based on calorie restriction and macro counting. It worked pretty well, but I feel like I’ve plateaued, so I think it’s time to change things up.

Review

How did I do in Q1? I’d actually give myself a B/B+ for my work this quarter. I fell off a bit in the last month of Q1, but for the most part I was pretty focused and hit a lot of what I wanted. A B/B+ is actually one of the highest ratings I’ve given myself so far, so it’s exciting to see early indications that some of my changes may be working :)!

Quantitative

  • Language learning
    • Learn French
      • OKR: Pass a B2 language test in French
      • Spend 3 months focused on learning French
        • OKR: Log at least 4.5 hours of conversation or class time each week.
    • Learn Japanese
      • OKR: Spend 3 months in Japanese-speaking countries
      • OKR: Memorize the first 600-1000 most common words in Japanese.
        • I haven’t started a concerted effort to take words off this list yet. So far, I’m mostly farming vocabulary from Duolingo, which I think is preferable.
    • Learn Chinese
      • OKR: Spend 3 months in Chinese-speaking countries
    • Habit: Complete Anki reviews daily.
      • I’ve missed a couple days here and there, but always end up making them up promptly.
  • Improve my health
    • Get back into shape
      • Get lean
        • Reach 10% body fat
          • Habit: Measure body composition every day so I can tell if current efforts are working
            • I’ve barely missed a day of doing this.
          • Habit: Track the foods I eat every day so I can correlate diet to fat loss
            • I started out strong doing this, but then fell off the cart toward the end of the quarter.
      • OKR: Find a training program I feel I can trust and stick to it unless body composition results show I’m not moving toward where I want to go. Re-evaluate programs every ~12 weeks.
      • OKR: Find a diet plan and stick to it long enough to evaluate results.
        • I would give myself a 60% compliance rate with my diet haha…
      • Habit: Exercise at least 3 days a week
        • I’m easily doing closer to 5-6 days a week
  • Learn to talk to attractive women
    • OKR: Create and complete a 30-day challenge for myself with challenges sourced from friends
    • OKR: Complete the challenges from Rules of the Game
    • OKR: Delete all dating apps, and don’t use them for the entire year
      • I’ve caught myself kind of tempted to download these once or twice, but on the whole I’m finding I’m quite happy without them.
  • Launch a successful project
    • OKR: Launch at least 2 projects of my own this year.
      • Presently, potentially a little off-track to hit this.
    • OKR: Take on no more than 3 months of consulting work this year.
      • It helps that I haven’t had any leads this year yet.
    • Habit: Work on projects 6 hours a day
      • I’d give myself 50-60% compliance. I’ve had a number of days where I felt like I didn’t quite hit the 6 hour goal, and then never made-up the time. Hoping my new implementation plan will help me to stay focused and motivated.
  • Read more
    • OKR: Read 52 books
      • 17/13 books for Q1
    • Learn to speed read
      • OKR: Eliminate subvocalization while reading
      • Habit: For at least 3 months, spend 10 minutes using speed reading training software each day
        • I had very high compliance with this for 2 months. Then dropped off.
      • Habit: Take a reading speed test every week or two to measure progress
    • Habit: Read at least 2 pages a day
      • I was good about this for about a month, then started to totally blow it off.
  • Deepen my mindfulness practice
    • Meditate more (aim for once a day; consistency matters more than duration)
      • Habit: Use Headspace to meditate every day shortly after waking up
    • OKR: Spend some time at a Plum Village location in Asia
  • Write more
    • OKR: Write one blog post per new city/country I live in
      • I still owe the world a blog post about Mexico City, which I’m still drafting.
    • OKR: Finally write the blog post I’ve been meaning to write about “ideal love” theory
    • Habit: Write at least 100 words every weekend
      • I’ve done this most weekends, though again the last month of Q1 I started to fall off the cart.
  • Improve my relationship with my immediate family
    • OKR: Find an online therapist I like to help me navigate difficult emotional issues involving family relationships
    • Habit: Call each family member weekly
    • Habit: Discuss progress on family relationships with a therapist weekly
      • My therapy sessions have been kind of all over the place. I’ve maybe talked about my family in 2 or 3 out of nearly 10 to 12 sessions. I guess I have lots of other things to talk about :P.

Qualitative

Qualitatively, I feel like I did pretty well. I spent the entirety of the quarter in Taipei, fulfilling my “Spend 3 months in Chinese-speaking countries” OKR. I’m generally able to have conversations with locals in Chinese, though there are still a lot of words I won’t recognize, and I’ll often need them to either explain or re-express themselves using different words.

Work-wise, I did OK, but not great. I didn’t release anything new to users this quarter, which is a little disappointing to me, but I have made a good amount of progress towards some new features for a product that I’m excited about. I realized too late that my work this quarter had been a little unfocused due to the lack of a real scoping/planning session to ensure that I knew what was important and why. As a result, I had a lot of days where I felt kind of frustrated that things weren’t moving more quickly, or where I felt a little lost in the process. I’ve now taken the time to really write out a plan that outlines the what, the why, and the how of my work for the next couple of months, and so far I think it’s been helping a lot. In the future, I need to remember to set aside a couple days to do this at the beginning of every major chunk of work.

I do think, however, that I need to be a little more disciplined about work time and vacations. I feel like I didn’t work nearly as much this quarter as I had intended to, in part because I had some unexpected time off, and in part because some days I just struggled to get my full 6 hours in.

Health- and exercise-wise, I feel pretty good about my efforts. I exercised pretty much 6 days a week for virtually the entire quarter. I didn’t do as well about following my diet, on average, and I do partially have 14 days in home self-quarantine to blame for that, but my results on the scale have been promising nevertheless. I’m down over 10 pounds this quarter, and my body fat looks to have dropped somewhere between 2 and 3 percent. It’s been hard to get accurate body fat measurements, so I don’t really know exactly how close I am to 10% at this point, but I’d guess I’m somewhere in the range between 13 and 16 percent, which isn’t a bad place to be.

Meditation has been going well. I have actually meditated every day for at least 10 minutes. I’ve found that 20 minutes sometimes feels too long and starts to mess with my morning routine, so I’ve started to allow myself to do shorter sessions so that I don’t feel tempted to skip the sessions entirely.

Reading is going very well. I’ve already ready 17 books this year, so I’m way ahead of the 13 I needed to stay on track for 52. I think all of the books I’ve read have so far been audiobooks, however, so I’m still struggling to make reading physical books a real habit. I’ll take what I can get, though, and I do feel like the audiobooks have had the intended effect of forcing me to learn and think about interesting topics, and generally philosophically engage with the world around me.

I did also do a good amount of speed reading this quarter, though I started to peter out after about 2 months. If the speed reading tests in the app I’m using are accurate, my reading speed has increased from ~250 words per minute (average for someone who subvocalizes) to something closer to 375 words per minute. I’m starting to learn what it feels like to read with less subvocalization, but I certainly haven’t eliminated it yet.

Therapy has been going well. I found a therapist I like, and she’s been helpful in pointing out some of my patterns, validating my own thoughts and ideas around my weaknesses, and occasionally giving advice to push me to think more deeply. I don’t know that I’ve necessarily witnessed a tangible change wrt to my relationship with my family, but I do feel like we’ve been getting along OK, and I have been good about calling every week. (I’ve maybe missed one or two weeks here and there.)

Conclusion

On the whole, I feel like things are going surprisingly well with my goals, and I don’t feel I need to take a whole lot of corrective action. I will, however, want to pay special attention to the last month of Q2, when my habits are more likely to fall off, and I’ll need to make sure I take the time to scope out and plan my work so that I stay on track.

Narrative

I lived in Medellín, Colombia for 3 months from late May until late August 2019. This post is written and published after the fact.

Medellín, Colombia, (pronounced me-da-jean in the local accent) like many other places I’ve been to is a complicated place with a troubled past. To the chagrin of pretty much every Colombian I’ve had the fortune of befriending, Medellín is best known to the rest of the world as the home of the late drug lord Pablo Escobar, who is also the subject of the Netflix hit series Narcos.

I watched Narcos while I was in Colombia, and the truth is that some of the stories I’ve heard from that time period are actually even more haunting than what Narcos portrays. In fact, during the 1990s, Medellín was known as the most violent city in the world, owing mainly to the fact that Pablo Escobar’s primary tactic for getting what he wanted from the government was to hold the civilian population hostage. There was a time when innocent people would literally be killed randomly in the streets and when policemen had extraordinary bounties on their heads. I came away feeling like virtually everyone who lived in Colombia during that time must have a story about someone they knew who was injured, kidnapped, or murdered.

As an outsider, even a contemporary outsider, it’s easy to look at events like these and think “Ah, that’s unfortunate” but then to subconsciously write the issues off as part of the problems of a far away land concerning people you’ll never know. However, spending time in Colombia has helped me realize that often domestic issues are inextricably tied to international causes and effects. For example, I’ve learned that, on average, Colombians are not the ones who consume the large quantity of drugs produced in their country. Rather, the vast majority of those drugs are exported to meet worldwide demand, particularly in the West from countries like the US. In many ways, drug consumption worldwide had a role to play in driving the cycles of greed and violence that long plagued Colombia.

This is, of course, only part of the complex story that is Colombia, and it’s not really the narrative I’m here to tell. Colombia has since undergone a major transformation and, while there is still a lot of crime and political instability, and there are dangerous places you absolutely should not venture to, it is not the country it was in the 1990s. And though Colombia–and Medellín specifically–still has a, sometimes well-deserved, reputation for being dangerous, I’d be remiss if I didn’t also mention that, on average, Paisan people–this is the self-given name of people from Antioquia Valley, in the heart of which Medellín can be found–are some of the nicest people I’ve met in the world, and that Colombian culture is one of the most vibrantly invigorating cultures I’ve ever experienced.

I went to Medellín because it is a famous global nomad capital (similar to Chiang Mai in Thailand in its notoriety), and after hearing so much about it, I felt I had to check it out for myself.

My first impressions of Colombia were actually all fairly negative. Before arriving at the airport in Medellín, I was warned by a few friends to ride in the front of my Uber and not to be too obvious about calling an Uber in the arrivals area of the airport. It turns out that Uber and other ridesharing services are actually illegal in Colombia, but many of them operate anyway, simply absorbing the fines incurred by drivers who get caught. When riding an Uber in Colombia, one must therefore ride in the passenger’s seat so as not to raise suspicion from the police that a normal civilian car is being used as a taxi. If you are pulled over you are meant to explain that this driver is actually a good friend of yours and that they are giving you a quick ride somewhere for no compensation at all. Thus, some of my very first moments in Medellín were spent worrying that my Uber might be pulled over by the police and that I’d end up stranded halfway between the airport and my accommodations.

(As of January 2020, Uber has actually exited the Colombian market.)

Two close friends of mine had already been living in Medellín for a couple of weeks, and had filled my head with frightening stories. For example, a friend of a friend allegedly went on a Tinder date in Medellín, and made the mistake of allowing the girl to call their car home at the end of the night. En route, two armed men jumped into the car and kidnapped him, threatening to cut off his fingers if he didn’t give them his banking information. He complied, and lost tens of thousands of dollars. Afterward, they didn’t know what to do with him, and he floated from motel to motel under armed guard for awhile until he escaped one night to tell us all his tale.

Other common stories in Medellín include accounts of people bringing women home only to be drugged, then waking up to find that she and her buddies stole everything during the night (this actually happened to someone I met in Medellín) or the use of a drug called “Devil’s Breath” to make someone susceptible to the suggestion of emptying their bank accounts.

Petty crime and theft are fairly rampant in Medellín–so much so that there’s a local phrase you can’t help but pick up: no dar papaya, which literally means “don’t give papaya.” It’s a funny phrase, but the idea is that if you cut papaya and leave it out on a platter, people are going to eat it. Your belongings are the papaya, and if you make it easy to steal your stuff, people will definitely do it. I never personally had any problems in Medellín, but this concept became real to me when, after hanging out at a local friend’s restaurant past closing, he started literally removing the lightbulbs from a string of lights he had hanging outside. Believe it or not, people will even steal the light bulbs, even in the relatively nice part of the city I lived in.

All of this is to say that when I arrived in Medellín, I was super cautious and super afraid. So much so that I considered cutting my stay short from three months to just one. My first few days, I remember employing tactics I learned in Vietnam where, even just a few blocks from where I was staying, I would never feel comfortable taking my phone out to check for directions because I didn’t want anyone to see that I was carrying something so valuable. It makes me laugh to think about that now considering that I’d eventually graduate to walking home through those same streets alone at night. (Obviously still not recommended if you’re solo traveling as a woman–checking my male privilege.)

What made me feel safer? Well, I visited a few of the definitely seedier and more crowded parts of Medellín, and I realized that my neighborhood was not particularly dangerous. I also started to realize that my two friends, having heard so many negative stories, were likely overreacting, and passing their fearful emotions along to me. There are, of course, places that you avoid in general, and places that you avoid during certain times of day, but so long as you exercise a reasonable amount of common sense, you’ll generally be fine. Most of the really bad things you hear about happening to people in Medellín happen to those who have come searching for drug or sex tourism. In three whole months in Medellín, I never personally had a single problem.

Son Havana, a cuban-style salsa bar in Laureles, Medellín

Ultimately, however, what actually tipped my decision to stay in Medellín for as long as I did was the Latin dancing scene. Let me make something clear: I’ve never been much of a dancer. Dancing is a form of expression that I’ve never felt terribly comfortable or confident in, and for me it’s always been something to tolerate, not to enjoy. But my first week, on a Friday night, I went out to Son Havana, a little salsa bar in Laureles, the upper-middle class neighborhood I was living in. Son Havana blew me away. The environment was so tangibly alive, and people were just having so much fun dancing and singing and being merry. I don’t know how to describe the experience as anything other than incredibly, incredibly invigorating. I walked out of that bar thinking to myself that 1) I’d stay in Medellín for three months and 2) I really wanted to learn more about how to participate in everything I had just witnessed.

I started taking salsa and bachata lessons, since those were the two most popular dance styles in Medellín. In the process, I found out that classes for just about anything were super affordable. I paid on the order of $15/hr for private salsa lessons with a professional teacher. I also got a membership at a nearby gym for $30/mo which included unlimited CrossFit classes, and I found a Jiu Jitsu dojo where I could take an unlimited number of classes for about $60/mo (and the price was inflated because I had to pay to rent a gi every class since I wasn’t willing to buy my own).

In fact, most things in Medellín are pretty affordable, which likely explains part of why it’s so popular amongst nomads. I’ll include a full budget breakdown later in this post, but the other stand out thing was the price of food. In Colombia, many restaurants offer a menu del día, or menu of the day. Usually the deal is a soup, a main, a dessert, and juice for between $2 and $5.

Bandeja Paisa, a local Medellín specialty, consistent of rice, fried chicharrones, ground pork, a fried egg, a potato, and a fried plantain

As a foodie, I have to say that food in Colombia often leaves a lot to be desired, however. I wasn’t impressed by Medellín’s local specialty, the bandeja paisa, which turned out to be a cut of meat, beans, rice, arepas, and sometimes fried plantains. Unfortunately, the bandeja paisa turned out to be fairly representative of most dishes in Medellín, and few things left strong impressions.

There were a few highlights, however. In search of the best menu del día in Medellín, I stumbled upon Achiote Bistro in Laureles, which became a staple in my diet (some weeks I’d literally go there 4 or 5 times). The food there isn’t exactly traditional Colombian, but it is fresh, delicious, and pretty healthy. In spending so much time at Achiote Bistro, I befriended the restaurant’s chef and co-owner, Pablo, who would become one of my closest friends in Medellín.

Helping Pablo prepare lunch in the kitchen of Achiote Bistro in Laureles, Medellín

Pablo surprised us one day by breaking the fourth wall and asking us if we’d like to hang out. That night we all went dancing, and from there Pablo and I became fast friends. Since I love to cook, before long I was coming to Achiote every now and then to help Pablo prepare his lunch menu. One morning, Pablo brought me along on his supply run to a very local market, despite knowing that many vendors might raise their prices when they saw me. We even had a few small events where Pablo let me use his kitchen to cook something fun, the most memorable of which being when I decided to learn to make my own sancocho, a traditional Colombian soup often served at family gatherings.

Pablo would not be the only local friend I would make in Medellín, and in general I found that meeting and befriending locals was much easier in Colombia than it had been in most other places I’d been. This actually surprised me quite a bit–given Colombia’s not-so-distant violent past, and given the sheer amount of petty theft, I had a hard time understanding how and why Colombian people were so amiable, trusting, and open to strangers. On multiple occasions when I turned out not to have enough cash to pay for something, people simply trusted me to come back another time to pay the difference. Additionally, even given the sorry state of my Spanish at the time, I found that people were excited and willing to spend time with me. This is certainly different from how I felt in France, and I can’t say for certain whether the difference can be explained better by the change in environment, or by development in my own ability to make friends. It’s probably a little bit of both.

Medellín’s gondola system, also known as the metro cable

In a lot of ways I admire the Colombian people and their apparent ability to be cheerful, to enjoy life and to keep looking forward, despite recent darkness. This can be seen in the numerous dancing clubs in Medellín where locals will often dance the night away until 3 or 4 in the morning. It can also be seen in Medellín’s surprisingly well-done public transit system, which, built in the 1990s at the height of the violence, is one of the cleanest and best-maintained metro systems I’ve seen outside of Japan. I’m told that locals revere the metro as a symbol of hope and progress, thus they take care of it better than virtually any other part of the city. Medellín also has an impressive gondola system as part of their public transit network. Contrary to the “house on a hill” paradigm, in Medellín the higher up on the mountains you live, the poorer you likely are. (Most of the gang fights and other violence still happen in some of these areas.) Together with the metro system, the gondola system creates an affordable way for all Paisans to navigate the city for work and leisure.

These 300 pillars light up the open plaza at night, bringing literal light to one of Medellín’s formerly seedy areas

Likewise many of Medellín’s seedier former crime hotbeds have been transformed into symbols of light and restoration. For example, Parque de la Luz, close to the city’s government center, was once one of the more dangerous parts of the city. Today, it’s been replaced by an open plaza with 300 pillars that light up in the darkness to symbolically and literally provide light where there was once darkness. (I should note, though, that this is still not an area generally recommended to foreigners to visit at night on their own.)

Are things perfect? Of course not, and people are not ignorant of the facts. It’s not super common, but on occasion after making conversation with Uber drivers I’d realize that not only had they spent time in the US, they’d actually illegally lived and worked there and, in some cases, had actually been deported, which is why they were now back in Colombia driving for Uber. One girl I went on a couple of dates with also expressed an almost single-minded desire to emigrate to the US. (Which, of course, being a US citizen myself, makes the dating dynamic a bit awkward.) I don’t bring these examples up to hold the US up as a shining beacon of hope and progress–in many ways it is, in many more ways, it is not–but rather to illustrate that a desire to escape does sometimes exist in Colombia.

Colombia and Medellín still have plenty of problems, ranging from fractured and militant political groups to the still booming drug trade. Yet this is a city, a country, and a people that has lost much, but, at least from my outside perspective, refuses to lose more by letting that define them.

The spirit of the Colombian people, the ease with which I could make friends, the low cost of living, and availability of cheap outlets for new hobbies all culminated in a very positive experience for me in Colombia. Probably my only complaints were the food, and Medellín’s rather small town feel. (I actually generally prefer bigger cities with more going on.) While I don’t know when or if I will return, I could see myself spending more time in Colombia some day.

Living and Working

There are two major areas that stand out to expats in Medellín: El Poblado and Laureles. El Poblado is the main tourist center of the city, and is where you’ll encounter a lot of foreigners. It’s also the center of nightlife in Medellín–bars, clubs, dancing, restaurants. At night, the party in El Poblado seems to stretch far into the morning, and the streets will be lined with prostitutes. While El Poblado is generally pretty safe, it is somewhere you can find trouble if you go looking for it. It’s certainly the louder and livelier of the two options.

Laureles, which is where I stayed, is much more down-to-earth. While you will encounter foreigners in some of the more popular cafes, it has a more local and less gentrified feel to it. It is, however, an upper-middle class neighborhood, and therefore nicer than many other parts of the city by Colombian standards. Laureles was, in fact, so clean and so nice that in my first week when I arrived I had serious cognitive dissonance–it absolutely did not match the picture of Colombia that I had in my mind. While Laureles is smaller and quieter, there are still a lot of good restaurants and cafes in the area. For those who want to party (or go out and salsa dance!!) there is a strip nearby called Setenta, which houses a lot of the nearby bars and clubs.

I ended up in Laureles based on the recommendation of a friend of a friend, and don’t regret the choice, though I’m sure staying in El Poblado would have been a very different experience.

I lived in a new coworking/coliving space called Conomad House. I can’t say that it was anything particularly special, but it was cheap and 3 of my friends were staying there with me. The $350/mo I paid there included a small working space with blazing fast internet, but the walls were thin and the neighbors were loud, so I’d often be woken up earlier than I wanted to be. The location was good, situated in the heart of Laureles, and I spent most of my days working from home.

If I end up back in Medellín some day, I think I’d likely try to get myself a room in a penthouse, preferably in Laureles. My impression is that these can be quite affordable once split amongst multiple people–something like $1800/mo for 3 bedrooms.

Recommendations

Here are my favorite spots in Medellín. Keep in mind I spent most of my time in Laureles:

  • Food
    • Achiote Bistro
      • Fresh, delicious, healthy food in a cool environment
      • Tell Pablo, the chef, that Daniel says hi!!
    • Arepitas Rellenitas
      • Ordinarily, I honestly despise arepas. This is the only place I’ll go to eat them!
    • Restaurante La Aldea

      Sancocho from Restaurante La Aldea in Santa Elena. One of the best soup dishes I’ve probably had in my life.

      • This one’s out of the way in Santa Elena, but well worth the trek
      • Best sancocho in the world!! Delicious, savory, smoky. My chef friend Pablo took me here and I was not disappointed.
        • So good that I went all the way back one more time before I left Colombia
    • Caduff Pasta Fresca
      • Go for their lunch menú del día–handmade pasta at an incredibly low price point
    • Empanadas La Catedral
      • Delicious empanadas!!
    • Los Perritos
      • Colombian-style hotdogs inundated with tons of other unhealthy stuff that makes it delicious but terrifying to eat
      • Really only need to go here once haha
    • Restaurante Mistura
      • First tried this restaurant in Cartagena, but they do a very interesting fusion of Latin and Asian cuisines
      • A little on the pricier side for Colombia
    • Chef Burger
      • Seldom would I recommend a burger place outside of the US, but Chef Burger’s patties made from high quality ground beef mixed with Argentinian chorizo are simply delectable
    • SMASH Avocaderia y Cafe
      • A more casual and healthy meal, but a common staple in my diet in Colombia
    • Casal Bakery
      • A staple for me because I lived right above it
      • Very good value for menú del día and delicious desserts!
      • Food otherwise is just OK, but they often serve traditional Colombian dishes
    • Olivia Pizzeria Laureles
      • Good place for a pizza if you’re craving one!
  • Bars and Breweries
    • 3 Cordilleras
      • Cool craft brewery that has an awesome deal on craft beer flights (something like $20 for 5 or 6 very generous glasses of beer)
      • Often have live music events and concerts at the brewery!
    • BBC Cervecería
      • Awesome craft beer! Their stout is quite good
      • Used to come here to hangout a lot
  • Salsa Clubs
    • Son Havana
      • The place that originally made me fall in love with salsa
      • Live music here past ~11 or 12 on Friday nights!
    • El Tibiri
      • A pretty local spot that’s usually pretty packed
      • It’s sort of in a poorly ventilated basement, so be warned that it gets HOT!
    • Dance Free
      • A popular salsa school/club in El Poblado
      • I only went once, but was impressed–lots more space to dance here than most other places I’ve been
  • Dance Schools
    • Euforia Escuela de Baile
      • My salsa teacher, Catalina, was super awesome!
      • Very affordable private lessons ~$15/hr
    • Solo Ritmos
      • Great group classes at a very affordable price
      • Most of the instructors here don’t speak English, however
  • Gyms and Fitness
    • 360 Fitness
      • Not the nicest gym you’ll ever go to in the world, but very affordable at $25/mo
      • For $35/mo you also get access to unlimited CrossFit
    • Checkmat Colombia-Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu
      • Cool dojo to train Jiu-Jitsu
      • Unlimited classes for ~$60/mo
      • Instructor speaks some English, though will mostly instruct in Spanish
  • Sightseeing / Activities
    • Me picking coffee cherries on a Colombian coffee plantation

      Coffee Plantation Tour

      • Colombia is famous for its coffee! And there are many plantations accessible from Medellín.
      • Learn about the coffee process, and pick your own coffee cherries.
    • Medellín Bike Tour
      • Website is a little janky, but the tour is high quality
      • Be advised that the tour is catered toward people who enjoy cycling (and have a relatively decent fitness level). Not for the faint of heart.
    • Free Walking Tour
      • Covers a lot of places you probably don’t want to go without a group
    • Ride the Gondolas to Parque Arví
    • Plaza Botero

      Plaza Botero in Medellín, Colombia

      • Featuring many statues from celebrated Colombian artist Fernando Botero
      • The Free Walking Tour above will take you here briefly
  • Side Trips
    • The view from La Piedra, Guatapé, Colombia

      Guatapé

      • The site of the La Piedra, a very, very large rock with an incredible view, and a very colorful city that actually feels more Mexican than Colombian at the end of the day
      • A couple of hours from Medellín by bus
  • Miscellaneous
    • Lava en Happy Laundry
      • I came here all the time to have my laundry done for cheap
      • Staff is super friendly, and most of them speak very good English
      • If you drop off in the morning, can have your laundry done same day

Flower Festival

Believe it or not, Colombia is one of the world’s largest exporters of flowers, and Medellín is one of the flower capitals of the country. Thus, every year in August Medellín hosts a huge Flower Festival, which involves parades, pop-up events, decorations, the whole nine yards. I hadn’t planned on it, but I had the good fortune to be living in Medellín during this event in 2019.

An example of a rather elaborate silleterra–I was too impatient to wait my own turn 😛

On the whole, I think it was a cool experience–silleterras, the traditional flower displays–are really quite extravagant, and cool to see. The legend goes that once upon a time before the mountains opened Antioquia Valley to more convenient forms of travel, people would literally put chairs on their back and carry people–often the wealthier class–up and down the mountains on those chairs. These days, one can still see the chair-like nature of the silleterras that people carry on their backs, but nowadays the carry flowers, not people.

A flower farm in Medellín

I personally went to up into the mountains to see some of the flower farms and watch the process of making the silleterras. I was a little disappointed to learn that some of the more stylized designs involving text or brands were actually spray painted, but nonetheless still very impressed by the level of craftsmanship that goes into these works of art.

A less floral and more stylized silleterra. This is achieved with spray paint.

I also had the chance to go to a few of the concerts that happened during the week of the festival, and I tried to make it out to watch the grand parade featuring Colombian cultural dances and flower displays, etc. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to get a very good spot for the parade, so that experience was fairly lackluster.

At the end of the day, however, I’m not sure if I would recommend that someone make a special trip to Medellín just for this festival. At the very least, if you do, go the extra mile and reserve yourself an actual seat somewhere for the big parades–watching the parades from a distance through a hole in the very large crowd isn’t terribly gratifying.

Budget Breakdown

My typical monthly living budget while abroad is around $2000/mo, and in Medellín I actually found myself struggling to spend anywhere near that amount of money.

Here’s a breakdown of my budget from May 30 to August 27 (exactly 90 days):

A detailed breakdown of my budget and spending in Medellín, created using Nomad Wallet

I could have spent much less on food, if I had tried, but I didn’t. I split my $350/mo housing cost in half, and logged half of it as coworking, since the arrangement included coworking. I tended to get free coffee out of that deal, too, so spent very little on coffeeshops. The majority of my services expenses were laundry, costing me ~$6 every 10-15 days. I ultimately didn’t need the insurance I purchased, so I probably could have dropped that. These numbers also include a side trip I took to Cartagena for a few days, which probably cost me ~$200 in total.

My only health expense in Medellín was a routine dental cleaning. In retrospect, I honestly wouldn’t recommend Medellín for dental care–the cleaning was cheap, but the technology wasn’t very modern, and I didn’t feel the dentist was terribly thorough (yes–the dentist himself did the cleaning!). Dental care was much better in Chiang Mai, Thailand, and in Mexico City, Mexico (which I’ll publishing my thoughts about soon!).

But as you can see, despite trying to spend more I ended up spending only about $1250/mo in Medellín. My life was pretty comfortable for that amount–I ate out for pretty much every meal, sent my laundry out for service, and used Uber as my main mode of transport. The only other thing I might have considered splurging more on is a housing upgrade as I mentioned earlier.

Happy New Year from Taipei, Taiwan!!

For quite a few years now, I’ve been writing out my annual goals and publishing them here on this blog. I’m going to skip the usual preface, as it’s getting repetitive, but suffice to say that it’s been a good exercise to force me to really think about how I’m spending my time each year, and whether or not I’m moving in a good direction.

2019’s theme was habits. Since 2019’s goal set was more-or-less a continuation of 2018’s, I decided to change the execution a little bit. The reasoning behind a habit-driven approach was that many long-term macro goals require habitual adjustments on the micro level. I wrote a deeper reflection on 2019 elsewhere, but at a high-level I think this approach was correct. However, I asked myself to do a little more than was realistic in 2019, and there were probably a few periods where I experienced burnout without realizing it.

2020 is also largely going to be a continuation of 2018’s goal set, with a few changes and additions. I am still going to focus on building good habits. However, I am also going to intentionally make some of these habits a little easier to accomplish so that it’s more likely I feel I can complete them all in a given day.

At the end of the day, I think a lot of what makes habits work is consistency, not magnitude. A common tactic I’ve seen is to trick yourself into doing more by committing yourself to doing less. For example, by asking myself to read just two pages every night rather than to nebulously read before bed, I create an easily accomplishable, quantifiable, and well-scoped goal that I’m more likely to create space for. Odds are once I’ve started the process of reading, I’ll likely read for longer than just two pages.

I am also hoping to create a little more space in my life for flexibility and spontaneity. I think letting myself have some free time left over to reinvest however I situationally see fit is important–a lot of my best ideas actually come during times when I’m not “supposed” to be doing anything else.

Regardless, as time goes on and I feel comfortable with my load, I can always make things a little tougher. To that end, this year I’m going to be better about taking some time at the end of each quarter to really evaluate my progress on these goals and whether the load needs to be adjusted in either direction. This will be a period of 2-3 days each quarter where I release myself from obligation to do anything else (work included) so I can really think critically about my goals. Here are the dates I’ve blocked off on my calendar to do this, since I’m pretty sure if I don’t block these dates off now, I won’t make space for review:

  • Q1: April 3rd to April 5th
  • Q2: July 3rd to July 5th
  • Q3: October 2nd to October 4th
  • Q4: December 28th to December 30th

TBD as to whether or not I’ll publish each of these reviews, since polishing pieces for public consumption does take extra time and effort, though I will publish end of year reflections as usual.

In deciding on my goal set this year, I examined last year’s progress in combination with a rough “bucket list” of things I want to do and things I’m still afraid of.

Here is the bucket list, which is in no particular order and by no means comprehensive, since it was written off the top of my head:

  • Attend Le Cordon Bleu in France in French
  • Learn to make sushi in Japan in Japanese
  • Go to law school (?)
  • Run for public office (?)
  • Get licensed to fly planes
  • Get licensed to sail larger boats
  • Go on some cool, unique adventures
    • Grand Canyon rafting
    • Alishan, Taiwan climbing
    • Yushan, Taiwan climbing
    • See Ha Long Bay in Vietnam
    • Explore the Amazon rainforest
  • Attend the Olympics in a country I love
  • Learn to build successful products, businesses, and organizations
  • Study all kinds of philosophies and gain a deep intellectual understanding of lots of academic disciplines that underlie human behavior and the world around us
  • Be able to communicate and create a connection with people from all around the world, in their own language, and without using my own
  • Cultivate an abundance mentality around women and sex
  • Write a book
  • Write more about philosophy and life on my blog
  • Reach and maintain a level of fitness where I feel happy, healthy, and confident with my body and abilities
  • Learn martial arts
  • Improve my relationship with my immediate family
  • Perform in an improv show
  • Create my own thesis for the goal of life and what it means for individuals, societies, and governments
  • Find my own way to make the world a better place

I probably won’t be touching most of the above this year, but a few are of interest:

  • Fitness and health are going to be an important focus this year
  • Cultivating an abundance mentality around women and sex will also be an important focus this year
  • I will continue working on my own business, and consulting for startups this year
  • I will continue to work on my language studies this year
  • I’m planning to attend therapy sessions and hope that insights and learnings from those will help to improve my relationship with my immediate family
  • If I’m lucky, I’ll find some affordable dojos to learn martial arts in Asia
  • I am hoping to attend the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo, though I need to decide whether or not any remaining tickets are interesting and not cost prohibitive
  • I will likely have some cool adventures in Taiwan, Vietnam, and Japan this year
  • In the unlikely case I find I have a lot of free time, I may purchase X-Plane 11 and start teaching myself the basics of aviation

Things I’m still afraid of:

  • Rejection
    • Talking to attractive women, especially women I don’t know already
    • Feeling isolated and alone; unloved/unlovable
  • Regret
    • Feeling like I wasted my time
    • Feeling like I missed opportunities I should have taken
  • Commitment
    • Getting trapped in a relationship that doesn’t help me become who I want to be (or trapping someone in a relationship that doesn’t help them become who they want to be)
    • Getting trapped in an unhappy relationship
    • Choosing a career path or job that bores me or leaves me feeling unfulfilled
  • Death/Aging
    • Letting my youth slip away
    • Not doing certain things before I get too old to do them

With the exception of talking to attractive women, most of the above can probably only be dealt with through time, contemplation, and maybe a little therapy. Since I do intend to find a therapist this year, perhaps I’ll unpack some of this.

Finally, here are 2020’s goals:

  • Language learning
    • Learn French
      • OKR: Pass a B2 language test in French
        • I’m thinking I might take this in Hanoi, where official French language tests can be found at a discount
      • Spend 3 months focused on learning French
        • OKR: Log at least 4.5 hours of conversation or class time each week.
          • If I like this model, I may consider implementing it in other countries for other languages. Thus far I’ve been hesitant to sign-up for classes due to cost and concerns that classes might move too slowly or fail to fit with some of my existing language learning workflows.
    • Learn Japanese
      • OKR: Memorize the first 600-1000 most common words in Japanese.
      • OKR: Spend 3 months in Japanese-speaking countries
        • Realistically, this means spending 3 months in Japan
    • Learn Chinese
      • OKR: Spend 3 months in Chinese-speaking countries
        • I’m unlikely to go anywhere other than Taiwan to do this
    • Habit: Complete Anki reviews daily.
  • Improve my health
    • Get back into shape
      • Get lean
        • Reach 10% body fat
          • Habit: Measure body composition every day so I can tell if current efforts are working
          • Habit: Track the foods I eat every day so I can correlate diet to fat loss
      • OKR: Find a training program I feel I can trust and stick to it unless body composition results show I’m not moving toward where I want to go. Re-evaluate programs every ~12 weeks.
        • Ideal program includes HIIT, weightlifting, and endurance cardio; has 5 workouts a week; and does not take longer than ~60 minutes per workout on average
      • OKR: Find a diet plan and stick to it long enough to evaluate results.
        • In the past I haven’t been consistent about this to really evaluate, and I haven’t had access to a way to measure my body fat
          • This time, I’m traveling with a digital scale that can measure my body fat 🙂
        • In the past it’s also been time intensive to prepare my own meals, which sometimes causes me to fall off the cart
          • This time, I’m also traveling with a sous vide machine, which, aside from just being a fun chef’s toy, promises to make cooking certain things (e.g. chicken breast) super low effort and actually really tasty
        • Things I’d like to try:
          • Calorie restriction and macronutrients
          • Slow carb diet
            • This one is attractive because of its “cheat day” concept, which keeps me from feeling deprived of my favorite foods, and because it doesn’t strictly require me to log what I eat
          • Keto diet
      • Habit: Exercise at least 3 days a week
  • Learn to talk to attractive women
    • OKR: Create and complete a 30-day challenge for myself with challenges sourced from friends
      • This should force accountability similar to my rejection challenges back in the day
    • OKR: Complete the challenges from Rules of the Game
    • OKR: Delete all dating apps, and don’t use them for the entire year
      • This will force me away from outlets that might make me feel like I’m making progress when I’m really not
  • Launch a successful project
    • OKR: Launch at least 2 projects of my own this year.
      • This number is down from last year, as I’m realizing the time it takes to really test a complex idea and reach product market fit is closer to 3-6 months than it is to 1-3 months.
    • OKR: Take on no more than 3 months of consulting work this year.
      • This should be sufficient to fund my lifestyle for the year
    • Habit: Work on projects 6 hours a day
  • Read more
    • OKR: Read 52 books
      • There are actually specific topics I’d like to see myself delve into further, but… for now I’ll just settle for increasing volume.
    • Learn to speed read
      • OKR: Eliminate subvocalization while reading
      • Habit: For at least 3 months, spend 10 minutes using speed reading training software each day
        • I purchased a license for 7 Speed Reading awhile back, but never really made use of it
      • Habit: Take a reading speed test every week or two to measure progress
    • Habit: Read at least 2 pages a day
      • Keeping the number small so I can develop this into a habit and feel like this is easy to accomplish
  • Deepen my mindfulness practice
    • Meditate more (aim for once a day; consistency matters more than duration)
      • Habit: Use Headspace to meditate every day shortly after waking up
    • OKR: Spend some time at a Plum Village location in Asia
      • Hong Kong and Thailand are both good ideas
      • I’m currently registered for one week in Plum Village, Thailand, from March 6 until March 13, though this is still cancellable
  • Write more
    • OKR: Write one blog post per new city/country I live in
      • ~Approximately once every 3 months
    • OKR: Finally write the blog post I’ve been meaning to write about “ideal love” theory
    • Habit: Write at least 100 words every weekend
      • Again something small just to force myself to find time to sit down and write regularly
  • Improve my relationship with my immediate family
    • OKR: Find an online therapist I like to help me navigate difficult emotional issues involving family relationships
      • I’m going to try BetterHelp for a little while and see how I like it
    • Habit: Call each family member weekly
    • Habit: Discuss progress on family relationships with a therapist weekly

Here are the habits extracted from the above for my own convenience:

  • Daily
    • Read 2 pages a day
    • Use Headspace to meditate every day shortly after waking up
    • Complete Anki reviews
    • Measure body composition
    • Track foods I eat
    • Work on projects 6 hours a day
    • For at least 3 months, spend 10 minutes using speed reading training software
  • Weekly
    • Write 100 words every weekend
    • Call each family member
    • Discuss progress on family relationships with a therapist
    • Exercise at least 3 days a week
    • Take a reading speed test to measure progress
  • Quarterly
    • Review these goals and adjust load as needed

And here are the OKRs:

  • Pass a B2 language test in French
  • For 3 months, log at least 4.5 hours of conversation or class time in French
  • Memorize the first 600-1000 most common words in Japanese
  • Spend 3 months in Japanese-speaking countries
  • Spend 3 months in Chinese-speaking countries
  • Find a training program I feel I can trust and stick to it
  • Find a diet plan and stick to it
  • Create and complete a 30-day challenge for myself with challenges sourced from friends
  • Complete the challenges from Rules of the Game
  • Delete all dating apps and don’t use them for the entire year
  • Launch at least 2 projects of my own this year
  • Take on no more than 3 months of consulting work this year
  • Read 52 books
  • Eliminate subvocalization while reading
  • Spend some time at a Plum Village location in Asia
  • Write one blog post per new city/country I live in
  • Write a blog post about “ideal love” theory
  • Find an online therapist I like to help me navigate difficult emotional issues involving family relationships

Most of these goals aren’t new, and I’ve written extensively about why I’m pursuing each of them in the past, so I won’t rehash them all here. Rather, I’ll just cover the ones that are new or feel like they continue to require explanation.

Improve my relationship with my immediate family

Relationship with self and relationship with family have been rising themes in my life for awhile now. I grew up in a household where my parents seldom got along. Neither of them ever really seemed to know how to deal with their own emotions, let alone with each other’s. As a result, I don’t think my parents were ever really capable of teaching me how to do these things for myself–after all, it’s difficult teach things that you haven’t yet mastered yourself. My lack of aptitude in these areas lent itself to a lot of struggle, particularly in my high school and college years. I never really had a template for healthy relationships. For a very long time, I don’t think I had a particularly healthy relationship with myself.

These are difficult issues, and I’m sure I’m not the only one who never felt equipped by their parents to deal with them. There are a lot of unhappy and unhealthy relationships out there, and I think a lot of the insecurities, emotional issues, fears, and biases that people have probably stem from the effect that familial issues had on them. What’s particularly alarming about these kinds of issues is that in many cases they can become generational. Without conscious examination and practice, people tend to become emotionally deficient in similar ways to their parents. This means that that hot temper one of your parents has, or a tendency to be physically, emotionally, or verbally abusive may actually be an outgrowth of similar issues that their parents had, and even their parents before them. It also means that if we’re not careful, and we don’t work on ourselves, we will tend to pass these deficiencies to our own children in turn. (I think this is the source of the common aphorism “people tend to become their parents.”)

In my case, because home life was always so turbulent, I’ve done my best to learn from my parents’ mistakes and shortcomings. I now feel I’ve overcome a lot of the issues I started out with–a tendency for self-loathing expressed as extreme judgment towards self and others; mild social anxiety; a fear of trusting my own instincts and following my own path.

But the fact remains that my parents and sister still struggle with some of the things they’ve always struggled with, both with themselves, and with each other. And the fact remains that when I’m back with them, I tend to revert to old habits without realizing. Despite the progress I’ve made for myself over the years, I am ashamed to admit that my relationship with my parents–with my father, in particular–is often shaky at best.

I’ve wanted to resolve these issues with my parents for a long while now and the first time this entered my thoughts was in 2017 when I lived at home in San Diego for 6 months before starting my journey as a nomad. The first time this entered my writing, was in 2018, when understanding and healing my relationship with my parents became a major theme of my stay in Plum Village.

So why is this finally becoming so urgent as to make its way into my annual goals? Well, I had a girlfriend in Mexico City, and my parents came to visit over Thanksgiving. Naturally, I felt it made sense for my family to meet my girlfriend and vice-versa, so that I could ideally spend quality time with all of them without losing out on time with any of them. Unfortunately, even without me in the mix, a day with my family can be a stressful endeavor… and when I enter the fray without the right mindset, I tend to just make things worse.

Suffice to say that after a few days with my family, my girlfriend told me one night that she was extremely disappointed in my behavior toward both my mother and my father, despite my feeling like I had been on relatively good behavior. She also felt somewhat unwelcome by my sister, who likely felt like my bringing my girlfriend along detracted from quality time I could be spending with her. My girlfriend and I had a small fight over this all of this, and not without reason from her end. All of this is to say that for the first time in my life, I realized just how negatively my relationship with my family and the relationships within my family might affect my own romantic relationships.

If I didn’t have enough reasons to take action on this before, here arises yet another.

Learn to talk to attractive women

One of my biggest fears when I make this goal public is that people will think I want to sleep around, so I continue to feel the need to clarify that this goal isn’t really about that. Yes, this is part of a larger desire to have a more abundant mindset when it comes to women and sex, but I don’t actually need that to mean that I have lots of sex, just more to feel like it’s not far out of reach if I did want it, whether or not I actually act on the impulse. (And for the record, my existing experience with more casual physical intimacy without emotional intimacy has already left me not so desirous of more.)

This goal also isn’t really about finding a girlfriend or eventual life partner. From where I’m sitting right now, I’m not even sure if I want to be in a relationship. If I were to get into a relationship, it would have to be one where I feel the relationship actually pushes me to grow, rather than just taking time and energy away from my own growth efforts. More on all of that when I eventually write about love…

Instead, this is really more about establishing a mindset that allows me to be confident I’m making dating decisions from a place of excitement/love/abundance instead of a place of anxiety/fear/scarcity. A clear example of the difference here would be someone who chooses a partner because they feel inadequate or insecure, fearing that they can’t do any better than this partner and should just settle for what they have now versus someone who chooses a partner because they are confident and whole, but think that this partner is someone extraordinary that they’d like to have in their lives, and truly stands out above all of the other options, including the option of being happy on one’s own. I don’t know about you, but I’d like to be the latter, thanks.

Where I am now, I think there are still lingering feelings of inadequacy or insecurity that trigger a deep fear of talking to some women. I think getting over this will help me to feel like, while not everyone is going to be a good fit for me, nobody is “out of my league” so that I can feel confident that whoever I ultimately choose, I chose them because I actually love them and want to be with them, not just because I was secretly or subconsciously afraid I couldn’t do better. It will also help me to learn to just treat people like people, rather than putting certain people on pedestals.

Now, this is a goal that has been appearing in some form for years. And anybody following these goals from year to year would be totally justified in rolling their eyes and asking me what in the hell is going to be different this year. Part of the difficulty has been that traveling makes this even harder by adding a language barrier that often all but guarantees I’ll make a fool out of myself. Most of it is really just that I’ve been dreading addressing this and have been avoiding it.

I’m hoping a couple of things are going to be different. Firstly, I’m going to find a couple sources for challenges to execute for this goal. Two obvious sources for challenges will be: 1) friends who want to see me suffer 😛 and 2) the book Rules of the Game by Neil Strauss. Regarding #2, say what you will about the pick-up community–I, myself, do not support many of the pick-up communities practices after having read many, many books on the subject–but they do have a good handle on what it takes for a guy to push his comfort zone in this area, which is exactly what I need right now.

Secondly, I’m mentally committing myself to pressing forward with this even given that language barriers are an added challenge. Am I going to make a fool out of myself I’m forced to speak e.g. Chinese during some of these challenges? Probably. But then, that’s actually sort of the point–put myself out there, fail if I have to, and get comfortable with all of the emotions involved.

Sometime this year, I’ll be making these challenges a priority and will be holding myself publicly accountable for them. I likely won’t be videotaping any of this as I did last time, but I likely will write about some of the challenges. Stay tuned.

That’s it! To anyone out there reading this: I hope this was helpful, thank you for taking the time, and I wish you a fantastic 2020! Good luck moving towards wherever it is you hope to go.

If you’re looking for my 2020 New Year’s Resolutions, you can find them here.

Without looking at my goals, I want to say that qualitatively 2019 has been a decent year. I spent time in 6 countries (including my brief stays in the US), made a few new good friends whose stories I hope to follow around the world, learned enough Spanish to feel generally comfortable in Mexico, and made significant progress on a few projects. I’m feeling like I’ve finally got a good handle on balancing my nomadic lifestyle with productivity.

Considering my goals, I feel like I did as much as I could have (while remaining relatively sane) but still came up short on a few things. In particular, I completely fell off the cart on reading this year. Additionally, I worked on ~4 different projects this year, but it’s hard to say how many of them I finished. (One of them is a long-term, ongoing engagement with a client, another is a startup where we’re still searching for product market fit, but do have users playing with it.) Optimistically, I could say that out of 4 projects I finished 2.95, where the partial finished project is a client contract that is mostly complete but has a couple small things left, and the unfinished project is, once again, Serenity, the productivity tool I’ve been wanting to create. (The irony here is not lost on me.)

One of the bigger themes this year was habits. The idea was that any goal tied to a permanent lifestyle change really needs to be built into my life in some habitual way. I think that this was directionally correct. However, I struggled to internalize all of the habits that I wanted to solidify this year.

A few of the important ones have stuck well. For example, I do have a pretty solid habit around studying flashcards in Anki, which has powered learning Chinese and Spanish both to pretty reasonable levels considering the time investment. I also feel the habit of 6 hours a day of work has been ingrained in me deeply, leaving me feeling antsy if I’m not on track to accomplish it (for better or for worse). I’ve also generally been pretty good about exercise.

However, I don’t think any single habit has had a 100% success rate, and some have had close to 0%. For example, I haven’t been great about reaching inbox zero everyday, and I always seem to forget to take a little bit of time at the end of my day to plan for the next day. Reading has also suffered a lot this year, which pains me greatly to see since in the past reading has been an important engine for growth and inspiration.

So what happened this year? And what lessons can I take into 2020?

Language Studies

The biggest thing that comes to mind is that my language studies are taking a huge amount of emotional bandwidth as well as just sheer time. I’ve likely spent 2+ hours per day studying, and this mixed with work and exercise often seems to produce days where I don’t feel like I have much time available for anything else. I’m a little concerned that language studies are consuming too much of my time… though it should be noted that there have been places/times when I’ve felt like getting everything done was easy.

I think it’s necessary to examine a few things:

  1. If I didn’t have to spend time on language studies, how would I spend the time?
  2. What was common about situations where I felt like it was easy to get everything done vs situations where I felt like it was hard to get everything done?
  3. How can I make my language studying process more efficient overall so that I feel like getting it done is easy more often, regardless of the situation?
  4. How can I lower the long-term cost of maintaining languages?

How would I spend language time if I had it back?

If I didn’t have to spend time on language studies, I think I would probably spend more time working on average. I’d probably be able to comfortably increase my daily work hours from 6 to 6.5 or 7. Though I think I get a reasonable amount done in 6 hours, I have sometimes felt like devoting more time to work would speed up the process of becoming financially independent and building a stable business.

I’d also probably have more time to read on average. Right now I feel like I’m barely reading. I have some occasional spurts, but this hasn’t been very consistent this year. According to Goodreads, I only read 16 books this year, which is the lowest so far in recent years and trending further down from 2018’s 18 books read. To be fair, I do a lot of my reading through Audible while in transit or multitasking, so it may not be realistic to expect that time would be gained for that sans language studies. Reading actual books on Kindle is still not a real habit for me.

I’d likely feel like I have more time on average to hang out with people or optionally go on dates. I’ve learned that friendships and a healthy sense of community are important to my well-being, especially while on the road, so I shouldn’t discount this. On the dating front, I might also feel like I have enough bandwidth to push myself in this realm, and start learning to approach and talk to women I might want to go on dates with.

Without language studies I’d probably be able to prioritize exercise more. Right now my priorities are roughly work, language studies, and exercise in that order, mostly because I worry about running out of time and energy by the end of the day to finish my language studies. If I weren’t worried about time, exercise would likely become a top priority because I would know I can do it without sacrificing time for work.

If I weren’t learning languages, I’d likely end up spending the time learning something else. For example, something I’ve wanted to do for awhile now is read more academic papers, both in fields that I studied in school (e.g. AI, machine learning, computer systems, and computer security) and in fields that interest me. I have this idea that each year I’d try to really take the time to understand why the work of each Nobel prize winner is really so groundbreaking. Unfortunately, due to time constraints I don’t think I’m realistically going to start doing any of this anytime soon…

Situations where fitting everything in felt easy

In Taiwan, there were days that were easy and days that were hard. On the days that were easy:

  • I didn’t have to exercise.
    • I was on a workout schedule that had me exercising roughly 4 times a week, and the extra hour or two earned back from not exercising always made me feel like there was abundant time to do everything.
  • I didn’t have social commitments.
    • I could easily spend the entire day working on various things at my own pace and not worry about having to finish something later when I’d have less energy to do it.

I remember feeling like getting everything done was pretty easy while I was in Colombia. I think this came down to:

  • Feeling like my community needs were easily filled by the 3 friends traveling with me
    • The time we’d spend together was also typically pretty predictable around lunch and sometimes dinner, and then occasional days off to explore, leaving me plenty of time to do my own thing
  • Eating out was super cheap, saving me time and energy on cooking for myself day-to-day
  • Everything I needed and cared about was really close to where I was living
  • Crossfit was taking care of most of my exercise needs very efficiently since workouts would take ~an hour but still felt like an excellent workout
  • The mental load for studying languages actually decreased significantly because I went from studying Chinese flashcards (relatively time consuming, since I was also practicing hand-written Chinese characters) to Spanish, which is similar to French and English

Situations where fitting everything in felt hard

In Taiwan, I also sometimes struggled. I think I’d mostly attribute this to:

  • High mental load from Chinese. Handwriting cards, especially full-sentence handwriting cards, take a long time per card.

There were still some situations where I felt a little overwhelmed even in Colombia:

  • Primarily when I discovered that I had a deficit of nearly 2000 Chinese flashcards due to an error in my review settings…
    • This deficit has continued consistently through the end of the year, and I never resolved it, mostly because of how long it would have taken for me to do so (probably a good two days of dedicated studying, at least)

In Mexico, I sometimes felt like it was a struggle to fit everything in. I think this was because:

  • There were a few occasions in Mexico where I started using video games and other entertainment as a multitasking vehicle to motivate myself to do my flashcards. I ended up paying more attention to the entertainment than the flashcards, resulting in inefficient studying
    • e.g. I can often do flashcards while watching a TV show, and I was experimenting with playing certain low mental bandwidth simulation games
  • I had a girlfriend in Mexico City, and I’m realizing that I actually don’t have a lot of practice with maintaining my routines while also spending time with a significant other
    • This was challenging, and often a source of stress… towards the end of my stay in Mexico I decided to de-prioritize exercise and language studies to make time to spend with her, so I clearly still haven’t figured this out
  • My weekends were a lot busier in Mexico City, as a result of having so many things to see, do, and eat there, and having a girlfriend I wanted to spend time with
    • This meant I didn’t do a lot of things I might otherwise do on weekends like reading, writing, and exercising

How can I make language studies more efficient?

I’m not totally comfortable giving up on language, though… yes, some of this is sunk cost, but I actually do want to become fluent in a number of languages, and I think putting this aside would be a mistake. So the challenge is really more: how do I make my language studies more efficient?

For starters, I could reduce the number of cards I study per day… if I cut the new cards in half to 30, then I’d likely not have to study more than 150 cards per day in my active language. I’m still going to end up with 50-100 review per inactive language per day, however. I think all-told, this could bring me down to an hour of language studies a day, if I’m focused. I’m not a huge fan of this, though. 60 new cards a day is a reasonable number in order actually learn a new language at a decently fast pace. With 60 cards a day, I learn ~30 new words each day. In a month of daily studying, this means 900 words in a new language. It takes ~10,000 words to reach a native-level vocabulary in a language… so even at this rate it would take almost a year to memorize that much vocabulary. If anything, I actually need to find a way to bring this number up without killing myself, not down, since I’m probably at 5000 words in Spanish, 3000 words in French, 3000 words in Chinese, and 100 words in Japanese…

Part of what’s slowing me down on language studies is that I tend to couple this activity with something time wasting that actually steals my focus and attention away from the cards. This certainly slows me down, though it makes the process a little more pleasurable (so I don’t feel like it’s a total slog). There might also be a longer-term effect where I remember certain cards less well since I wasn’t paying total attention… not sure. This would be hard to measure.

I could break my overall language studies into two or three 30-45 minute super focused sessions each day. Or even three to four 20 minute sessions. These sessions might be short enough that I won’t feel like I need to do something time wasting during them, and the learning process won’t feel like such a slog.

I think “feeling behind” has a very real psychological effect on the study process. I’ve been more than 1000 cards behind on Chinese since I left Taiwan earlier this year. (This was due to an error in understanding how many cards I’d need to review per day to keep up with the number of cards I was adding a day. At the time I was doing 60/200 when I needed to be doing 60/300.) Clearing these reviews and getting this back to a place where everything feels manageable could help before I start studying new cards again. I think it’s worth investing a few days to a week to just get this under control so I don’t lose the habit. I’m not sure this is going to happen during the holidays, but it could be acceptable to spend the first week of the New Year doing this.

How can I decrease long-term maintenance for languages?

One additional concern I have about my current language studies approach is whether or not I’ll really be able to retain language knowledge after a long period of not actively studying (but perhaps constantly reviewing) a language. While I was in Colombia and Mexico learning Spanish, for example, I felt like my French disappeared. Some of this is likely that French and Spanish are similar enough to confuse the mind… but part of me also wonders if this is an early indication that my review methods aren’t keeping language in my head long-term.

I think I could potentially increase the “memorability” of my flashcards to help with this–this would mean making sure that as many of my cards have images and audio recordings as possible. The idea here is that a multimedia experience is more likely to lead to the card “sticking” in my brain long-term.

I also think that much of the long-term maintenance for languages needs to start shifting away from Anki flashcards and more towards consumption and use of languages in their natural contexts. This means more conversations with people, more TV and movies in a language, more books, etc. 

Unfortunately, I haven’t yet found a way to do this while also keeping time costs down… one cool idea I had that I may need to experiment more with is writing in my journal every day, then translating one paragraph of my entry into every language I’m maintaining. This helps me to keep “producing” the language, so I don’t forget how to think in each language. (Pro tip: you can also get native language corrections using a service like Lang8.)

I can also turn typical entertainment modes into chances to re-expose myself to languages. For example, it’s not so hard to change the language of a TV show I’m watching to a different language and then turn on English subtitles, or to change the language of a video game. Methods like this can help me to continue consuming a language so that common constructions and vocabulary stay top of mind.

Burnout

Somewhat related to my language studies, but probably relevant to my entire goalset is the concept of burnout.

I was browsing on Reddit the other day in the subreddit about Anki, the popular spaced repetition flashcard system that I use, and came across a post referencing the concept of “burnout.” This was the first time it occurred to me that burnout might be an applicable concept in anything other than just my career and my work-life balance. (We, of course, talk a lot about burnout in Silicon Valley, where, particularly in start-ups, it can be common to overwork people until they “burn out” like bulbs.)

Looking back on the year, I now realize that a lot of the times I felt overwhelmed by everything I had to do I was likely experiencing some form of burnout on one or multiple habits. Burnout is dangerous because it leaves me feeling tired and constantly stressed, ultimately lowering my overall productivity. Worse, it’s sometimes hard to detect burnout when I’m in it–when I’m there I don’t really feel like I have the space to step back and reflect on why things are so stressful.

I think going forward I need to be more careful to look out for burnout, especially where my language studies are concerned. To proactively head off burnout, I also likely need to rework some of my habits so that the focus becomes consistency rather than magnitude.

For example, if I tell myself to “read before bed every night” versus tell myself to “read two pages of a book before bed every night,” which of these feels more defined and accomplishable? Obviously the former is nebulous, and if I’m feeling particularly tired I may not feel like I have the energy to really devote to doing this. On the other hand, the latter sounds very easy, so I’m more likely to just do it even if I’m tired. At the end of the day, the goal is really just to force myself to create space for a habit, which the latter does. If I really sit down to read two pages each night, odds are I’m going to want to spend more time reading once I’m done with those two pages. Yet, it’s less mental load and pressure to know that if I only want to read a couple of pages, that’s OK, too.

Travel

The other obvious factor affecting my goals is constant travel. While I build up a new routine in each place I go, some habits live or die based on where I’m living. For example, much of my reading in a given year will come from audiobooks, which I normally listen to in transit from place-to-place, but in a country like Colombia where safety is dependent on awareness, I’m not always able to do this.

I think it’s therefore necessary for me to ask myself:

  1. What am I getting out of traveling right now?
  2. How would my life be better or worse if I decided to stop traveling?
  3. If I continue traveling, how can I mitigate the negative impact on my ability to pursue my goals?

What am I getting out of traveling right now?

I think each place I’ve lived in has given me an opportunity to be someone different. I’ve discovered lots of different expressions of myself through the lens of travel and learned more about what feels right, and what kinds of places foster that. In this sense, travel has been and continues to be a vehicle for self-discovery and growth.

Through immersion, travel provides me one of the most effective ways to accelerate my language studies. In turn, my language studies are an effective way to understand new cultures, which changes my perspective of the world, and of people. Mark Twain once wrote, “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness…” and my experience has certainly matched his. I think about things like poverty and opportunity differently from how I used to and I’ve become more tolerant of and interested in various cultures around the world. I look forward to how travel may continue to transform my perspective and personal philosophy.

To me, there’s also something gratifying about feeling like several places around the world are “home”. I think there’s a part of me that might go crazy with the monotonous routine of life stuck in one place–even if that were one place I really liked–so I find that my lifestyle continues to keep my life interesting and varied enough that I never feel bored or trapped anywhere. In a way, I think this also helps to keep me from getting complacent and forces me to take a fairly consistently active role in my life. Since leaving the States, I haven’t felt that creeping sense of “is this it?” or “damn, I’m too comfortable” that I used to have at my old job in Silicon Valley.

Being placed in a myriad of different, new situations trains me to get good at a few sets of problems sedentary people don’t normally have to deal with more than a couple of times in their lives. For example, I’ve gotten much better at establishing myself in a new place–making friends, finding outlets for hobbies, finding and attending events I might enjoy. I’m much more comfortable with uncertainty now than the average person, having dealt with lots of unexpected circumstances. I can be comfortable and productive almost anywhere, with just a few exceptions, and I know a lot more about what it takes for me to be comfortable and productive. If I ever do decide to stop traveling, I think all of these learnings will help me to feel more comfortable wherever I decide to settle, if I do decide to settle.

It is worth noting, however, that the more I see, the less it feels like there is left to see. Of course, the world is a big place, but it has been my experience that there are fewer and fewer novel experiences or dazzling sights to see as I cover more of the world. Once you’ve seen enough ruins, or enough cathedrals, for example, you start feeling like you’ve seen them all.

On the whole, though, I still feel like I’m getting a good amount out of traveling.

How would my life be better or worse if I decided to stop traveling?

As I’m sure I’ve noted before, traveling does have its advantages and disadvantages. A few of the key disadvantages are:

  • Close relationships can be harder to develop and maintain
    • This is especially true for romantic relationships
  • Some hobbies and activities can be very hard to maintain from place-to-place
  • Important long-term habits and routines can be harder to establish

If I were to stop traveling, it would be nice to build a strong, consistent sense of community around myself in one place–”putting down roots” as they say. I’ve learned much from my travels about how to do this more effectively. The flip side of this, of course, is that instead of community in one place, my travels have me building community in several places. Though each community is potentially shallower than one consistent community, it does help to contribute to the sense of “home wherever I go.”

My lifestyle also has a strange effect on romantic relationships. Firstly, of course it can be difficult to find someone who is open to the possibility that the relationship may only last a few months. But secondly, if I do find someone open to it, the knowledge that there is only so much time we have to spend together actually changes the dynamic of the relationship. For example, knowing that I only had 3 months with my girlfriend in Mexico made it feel way more selfish to say “actually, I can’t hang out today, I really need to work.” On average, I think this effect probably means I’m more likely to sacrifice time for my personal goals in favor of maintaining and strengthening the relationship. Additionally, the time limit can affect the depth of the relationship either positively or negatively–a partner might keep me at arms length knowing that I’m going to leave, or a partner might decide to pull me closer for the time we do have, leading to either a shallower or much deeper relationship in the same period of time as a normal relationship. On the whole, I haven’t decided if this is a good thing or a bad thing, though I think I feel slightly negatively about it.

If I stopped traveling, I’d have the opportunity to pursue a little more depth in certain hobbies and activities I enjoy. I’d love, for example, to have more consistent opportunities to sail, to rock climb with some of my old buddies, to dance salsa, or to train for triathlons again. There are also some things I can’t really cook without equipment that won’t fit into my suitcase (I miss my standmixer and my blowtorch T_T!!). The tradeoff here, though, is that I’ve had wonderful opportunities to experience new hobbies and activities everywhere I go! I was never so into salsa before learning to dance for 3 months in Colombia. And some of these things do end up being skills I get to take with me from place to place (e.g. Taiwan actually has a pretty large salsa scene!)

I also wouldn’t mind having a more stable environment to pursue some of my goals and establish good habits. On the other hand, travel is a unique outlet for many of my goals, including my desire to learn languages, my desire to confront uncertainty, my desire to expand my perspective and refine my philosophies. Heck, travel is even a good vehicle for working on my own businesses given that my runway abroad is easily doubled or tripled compared to what it might be in the States.

It’s hard to say one way or the other is strictly better. Both clearly have their advantages and disadvantages… and speaking wholistically, I think the advantages of traveling currently outweigh the disadvantages.

How can I mitigate the negative side effects of travel?

I actually feel like there isn’t a whole lot I can do here. The places I pick do sometimes affect my routine, so an argument might be made for being more careful about where I go and only choosing places that I think will support my habits and routines well, but… it’s often hard to tell in advance if a new place is going to be a good environment or not. Since part of the point of travel is to go to experience new places, it would a bit contradictory to declare that I’m only going to places I already know where the environment was good.

I can, however, choose to spend some of my time in those places. For example, I’m back in Taipei, Taiwan right now and I know this is a good place for me and my routines. I won’t be spending the whole year here, but a good few months can still go a long way.

Beyond choosing a place, I can try to make sure my life is set up in each place to best fit my needs. Judging by some of the analysis in the sections about my needs for well-being are:

  • A nice, private room to myself that’s insulated from sound so I can sleep has plenty of light so I can wake up
  • A good gym or other good exercise outlets very close to where I’m living
  • A sense of community and friends to hang out with
  • Cheap (relative to my standard of living) and healthy places to eat most meals so I don’t have to worry about cooking OR easy, low-effort meals to cook during the week

Otherwise, I think I likely just need more practice following a good routine under more situations. Similar to how I was on the learning curve in 2018 for how to balance my business with travel, perhaps I’m still on the learning curve for habits and routines. I think I may find 2020 will be a better year for many things without my putting in much extra active effort, but if I had to guess I have the most room for improvement in balancing flexibility with the rigidity of habits. For example, a rigid routine can make it hard to meet social commitments. If I have to be in bed by 10 every night to wake up at a certain time, I can’t hang out with friends on a Friday night. If I’m strictly on a diet all the time, it’s also difficult to meet friends for meals. I still have a lot to learn about how to effectively balance my social needs with my personal growth needs, especially in the context of romantic relationships.

Detailed Review

Here’s a more detailed review of my goals this year:

  • Running my own business
    • Launch 4-6 (more ideally, 8-12) different projects this year. These don’t all have to be of the same magnitude or significance, but they should all have some monetization plan from the beginning. Learn to scope projects well, learn not to be afraid of throwing something over the fence before it’s perfect, and really get the process down to a science.
      • I got to 2.95 here with 2 client projects and a business of my own.
      • I think I’ve underestimated how much time a single project would likely take to earnestly see through. I’ve wanted to be careful about terminating projects too early just to hit these numbers, which suggests to me that something is off about this metric.
    • Limit consulting work to only what’s necessary to a) maintain the business so it remains a viable fallback strategy and b) pay my annual living budget plus some money to invest in retirement. (~$30k)
      • I made significantly more than $30k this year in consulting (though we’ll have to see after taxes…), but I’m going to give myself full credit here because I actually turned down a consulting project this year that could have paid $15-30k on its own. It was scary for me saying no because I felt worried that opportunities like this would never come up again, but I had another project of my own that was just spinning up that I would have had to put on hold to take the consulting work.
  • Reach conversational fluency in Chinese
    • Spend at least 3 months in Chinese-speaking countries. Push to have a natural language conversation every day.
      • Spent 4 months in Taiwan!
      • My Chinese still has a lot of holes, but I can speak reasonably, and understand enough to make conversation with Chinese speakers I meet elsewhere in the world
      • I gave a presentation to high school kids in Chinese!
  • Reach conversation fluency in Spanish
    • Spend at least 3 months in Spanish-speaking countries. Push to have a natural language conversation every day.
      • Spent 3 months in Medellin, Colombia followed by 3 months in Mexico City, Mexico
      • My Spanish has reached a reasonable level, probably B1 approaching B2 with some deficiencies in my ability to communicate myself fluently
      • I’d guess my Spanish is about as good, maybe better than my French was last year
        • I should note, however, that the process of learning Spanish has left me feeling like my French has disappeared…
  • Travel
    • Meet new people and have new adventures wherever I go. Don’t get so singularly focused on running a business that I become a shut-in.
      • Some highlights:
        • Hiking through Taroko Gorge in Taiwan with a buddy from home
        • Observing the Lunar New Year celebrations for the Year of the Pig in Taipei
        • Befriending the chef of my favorite restaurant in Medellin, Colombia
        • Observing Day of the Dead and Mexican Independence Day in Mexico City
        • Road tripping to Oaxaca City from Mexico City with my then girlfriend and two friends
  • Mindfulness
    • Meditate for at least 20 minutes every day.
      • I’ve just plainly fallen off the cart on this. Interestingly, though, I’ve also had very few moments this year where I felt strongly like I needed this to help me deal with what I was going through.
  • Reading
    • Read or listen to 52 books
      • I read 16 books this year. Highlights included:
        • The Three-Body Problem by Cixin Liu
        • The Art of Learning by Josh Waitzkin
        • Sapiens by Yuval Noah Harari
        • Skyward by Brandon Sanderson
  • Learn to start conversations with women I’m attracted to
    • Start a conversation with at least one woman I’d like to talk to each week
      • I started out doing this a bit while I was in Thailand and Taiwan, but quickly lost it… I think if I’m going to tackle this I’m going to need something more structured to help light the way
      • I did have some romantic experiences this year, so perhaps that should count for something here, but admittedly none of those women triggered the deep-seated fear that this goal was meant to address.

Here’s an analysis of the habits:

  • Daily
    • Wake up early, and at the same time each day, without the snooze button
      • I still feel best when I wake up early, but I didn’t adhere to this.
      • Surprisingly, I found that this mattered less than I thought for actually getting everything done in a day, though the extra time in productivity in the morning does tend to leave me feeling less stressed.
    • Exercise
      • I was pretty good about this most places I went.
        • I was weightlifting in Taiwan
        • I did a mixture of Jiujitsu and CrossFit in Colombia
        • In Mexico I had a gym membership and was doing a mix of weightlifting and cross-functional training
      • I took a bunch of time off of exercise in Mexico after Thanksgiving…
    • Meditate
      • Barely did this. Haven’t been feeling urgent about the need, and am back in a place where it feels hard to fit 10-20 minutes of meditation into my day.
    • Complete my Anki reviews
      • Did pretty well on this. Sometimes had trouble on weekends, and occasionally had periods where I didn’t review, but would usually get back on
      • Currently on a longer hiatus which I’m hoping I’ll fix before I start working again in the new year
    • Review tomorrow’s action list and meetings at the end of the day
      • I think I did this a couple of times, but on the whole I failed to make this a regular habit
    • Reach inbox zero every day, but never do email first thing in the morning
      • I’m only saved on this one by having not reached inbox zero every day… but the days where I did, I think I typically did it first thing in the morning.
    • Log at least 6 hours of productive work
      • Not every day had 6 hours of productive work, but on the whole I think this habit has stuck and I had a decently productive year.
    • Read before bed
      • Don’t have a good reason for why this didn’t happen.
    • Get 8 hours of sleep every night
      • Haven’t been good about establishing the nightly routines that I need to do this.
  • Weekly
    • Reach out to family and friends
      • I was good about this for awhile, but fell off the cart in Mexico where my weekends were busy enough that I’d forget
    • At least one language exchange in all languages I’m actively studying
      • I don’t think I was super deliberate about this, but due to immersion this worked out OK anyway
    • Review next week’s action list and meetings at the end of the week
      • Did not do this at all.
    • Spend a few hours optimizing a process in my life or working on something important but not urgent
      • Hardly did this at all… this is something that I probably needed to build into my weekend.
  • Monthly
    • At least one language exchange in all languages I’m passively maintaining
      • I was horrible about this. My French is in shambles, though my Chinese is still OK. Worried I’m going to lose my Spanish.
    • Review my personal budget and finances, and re-strategize for the next month as necessary
  • Quarterly
    • Make sure my business finances are up-to-date
    • Self-review on progress toward annual goals
      • I actually didn’t even do a mid-year review this year :(. Don’t have a good excuse–I think at the time I felt behind on writing because I was trying to catch-up on blogging as well.
  • Annually
    • Review these goals and formulate new ones.

Conclusions

To wrap everything up, 2019 was a decent year–I learned a lot, saw a lot, and accomplished much even though I didn’t hit everything I had hoped to. I had some experiences with burnout that I’ll need to monitor for in 2020 to keep myself operating at peak efficiency.

I think I’m still getting enough out of traveling to continue in 2020, though I hope to take some of my learnings about what does and doesn’t work for me to start more proactively designing my environments in 2020, where possible.

I also intend to continue a similar goal set in 2020, though I think some adjustments are in order, particularly in the realm of language learning. I’m going to start by clearing out all of my existing flashcards from 2019 so I can start with a clean slate. Then I’m going to reduce the new flashcard threshold for a little while while I get used to studying in a few concentrated sessions each day (rather than multitasking with entertainment). I’ll have to see how this works, and will start to increase the new flashcard threshold slowly as I feel the process is sustainable.

On the whole, I’m going to rework some of my habits to create more of a feeling of space in my life, rather than a feeling of constant pressure. In practice, this means that rather than tell myself to “read every night before bed”, which is nebulous, I may tell myself to read just two pages of a book before bed. While two pages isn’t a lot, it’s enough to force myself to carve out time for the habit, and the odds are once I get started I’ll want to keep reading for a little while.

I think I can follow this approach with a lot of my habits in 2020, turning down the “difficulty” or magnitude in favor of promoting consistency. Of course, if after awhile I feel like I can handle more, I can always turn up the difficulty incrementally, but I think the goal is to always keep myself in a place where I feel like everything is manageable. Over time, I’m sure the threshold of what I think is manageable will also increase.

Sooo turns out I’m terrible at posting regular updates. Looks like I haven’t written much since probably July of last year. I owe an honest apology to anyone who has been waiting expectantly month after month for… silence. And I owe a genuine thank you to everyone who has lovingly–or impatiently–nudged me to write more here. I suppose this post is going to be my repentance–sort of a reflection on everything that’s happened since last July, and a little bit about where I am now and what I’m up to.

Buckle in, this is probably going to be a long read. So long, in fact, that I’m going to leave a summary and a table of contents for those without the time (or patience) to read everything:

Summary

The short version: since my last post in France, I’ve traveled through Morocco, Bali (Indonesia), India, back to Chiang Mai, and to Taipei, Taiwan. Things were rough for me in France and Morocco, but I’ve recovered since then and learned a little bit more about what I need in order to be happy, healthy, and productive. In my darker periods, I was fortunate to have a few consulting projects fall into my lap, and ended up consulting on various project nearly full-time for almost 6 months.

Consulting isn’t what I set out to do, but it’s been cool realizing that I can recreate the job I used to have in Silicon Valley on my own terms. What’s more, the pay is usually good enough that I’ve been able to start funding my lifestyle with plenty of time leftover. I’ve gone from working full-time as a consultant to half-time, and now even less.

At my present burn rate, just a few consulting projects a year is likely enough to pay my annual expenses, and then some. Right now the rest of my time is spent on my own projects. Currently I’m working on a new project with two close location-independent friends. We’re expecting to start beta testing the product in the next couple weeks. Between all the plates spinning in the air, things are busy enough that I’ve actually had to start turning prospective clients down. In short: work is going well. It’s taken me longer than I expected to get to where I am now, but I’m excited to have found a potentially sustainable way to continue traveling and to have time to work on my own projects.

Geographically, I’m currently in Medellin, Colombia, though I’ll be moving to Mexico City, Mexico very soon. I have a lot to say about Colombia now that I’ve lived here for almost 3 months–I expect I’ll publish something about my experience here soon :).

Recap

So let’s rewind: if you’ve read a few of the earlier posts here, you’ll know that a little less than 2 years ago I was working in Silicon Valley for a relatively prestigious company called Palantir. By some metrics, I was set for life and could have simply continued to climb the Silicon Valley career ladder in comfort. Yet I found that I was deeply unhappy and unfulfilled with what I was doing despite ostensibly having it all. So in August 2017 I quit both to challenge myself and to challenge the fragile definition of success I had implicitly bought into. The plan was to build small, self-sustaining, and automate-able businesses using my existing skillset as a software engineer, with the hope of 1) learning from repeated failures as much as I could in a short time span and 2) in the ideal case, eventually find a product or business that would stick well enough to generate the revenue required for me to win back my time (i.e. ~$2000-5000/mo in relatively passive income). I had about a year of runway saved up at the time, and figured that would be enough time to work something out.

Pre-Travel

After quitting I spent about 6 months at home with my parents in San Diego slowly acclimating to self-employed life. To be honest, this was a hard time. I knew to expect it, but my initial enthusiasm inevitably gave way to anxiety. It turns out that after over 2 decades of schooling followed by a full-time job it’s not the most simple thing to transition to completely managing yourself. I was surprised by how much I initially struggled with this, especially since I’ve always been very independent and extremely self-disciplined. I had such high expectations for myself to crush it that in the early moments when I realized I was definitely not crushing it I made myself feel awful for it. For obvious reasons this led to even less crushing it.

So 6 months passed, and I managed not to release a single product of my own. I did end up doing a few other things in that time, however. For example, I intentionally got rejected a lot, and for a little while I wrote some so-so weekly articles here on this blog. I also wrote a lot of foundational code for a library that I have ended up using for a couple of client projects. Oh, and fairly importantly, I took on my first consulting project building a prototype for a friend’s nascent startup. (The company was called Sain Health and we were building software to improve post-operation outcomes for hospital outpatients. The founder has since moved on to bigger and better things.)

Then, in February 2018, having still not really figured out how to run my own businesses, I left the United States. I had been reading about the trend of people traveling around the world who worked from wherever they chose to, and was naturally drawn to the idea. I also had a desire to live abroad and learn a number of foreign languages, so I already knew I would eventually leave the States when I quit my job.

Chiang Mai, Thailand

Image source: http://www.chiangmai.bangkok.com/

My first stop was Chiang Mai, Thailand, in February 2018. To be honest this was also initially a hard time. I still remember moments of extreme anxiety my first week in Thailand where I asked myself just what in the actually fuck I was doing there and why I had thrown away so much of my existing comfort and security for a life of who knows what the fuck I’d find. It got so bad at one point that I remember literally getting online to search for a therapist only to realize that I wasn’t sure I was willing to spend my precious runway to talk to one.

Things got better, of course, and, though I didn’t realize how important this was at the time, I was extremely fortunate to not be alone in Thailand. Prior to making the jump to Thailand, I had gotten in touch with an alumni from my college fraternity who also turned out to be headed to Thailand with his then girlfriend (now wife). Hilariously, I had only ever talked to him on the phone before showing up on his doorstep in Thailand to rent their extra room. I now count the two of them among my closest friends, and have crossed paths with them again a few times since we parted ways in Chiang Mai. Their presence plus the continued financial stability of my first consulting contract combined to make Thailand a very positive experience for me overall. And so, by the end of the month, much of my initial anxiety had given way to excitement and enthusiasm to have the privilege to live my life on the road.

Saigon, Vietnam

https://asiadaytours.com/featured/ho-chi-minh-city-information.html

In March I moved to Saigon (aka Ho Chi Minh City) in Vietnam. I had an unexpectedly spectacular experience in Vietnam, likely owing largely to the fact that I fell head-over-heels in love with a beautiful and intelligent Vietnamese woman. I never expected that I’d find the next love of my life while traveling, but I suppose life has its own plans sometimes. Anyway, what was supposed to be a single month in Saigon turned into two when I eventually decided to cancel my plans to move to Penang, Malaysia (again, mostly motivated by my then budding relationship, though I probably would have denied it if you had asked me at the time).

Saigon was a definite highlight in my early adventure: the food was delicious, I found community at a good coworking space, and I was in love. While there I wrapped up my first consulting project and finally got back to work on my own projects, though I didn’t release anything.

Return to the States

After two months in Saigon, it was finally time to go back to the States for the month of May to watch my little sister graduate from NYU. I spent a bit of time on both coasts. I picked up a motorcycle license in California. I planned a trip to Yosemite to reunite with many of my Bay Area friends. I went camping and spelunking with a close friend in Pennsylvania. The focus was really on spending time with friends and family, so work was once again put on hold.

During much of this time I was long distance with my girlfriend in Vietnam. Toward the end of my shore leave, she dropped a bomb on me that ended our relationship and left me pretty emotionally shaken. At this point, I’m more than capable of talking about what happened, but it’s a long story that a few sentences won’t do justice to. That one will have to wait, sorry :P.

France

The view approaching Mont Saint-Michel, France during low-tide.

At the end of May, at long last, I flew across the Atlantic to France, the one place I had actually really pictured visiting when I started traveling. (I mostly started in Asia because, as a spoiled Southern Californian, I wasn’t sure I’d survive a European winter.) I was driven by the dream of learning French and eventually going to Le Cordon Bleu for culinary school. It was also one of my annual goals to visit Plum Village near Bordeaux, France as part of an effort to deepen my mindfulness and meditation practice.

I landed in Marseille, a port city in the south of France with a bit of a seedy reputation. Marseille is a rougher city, for sure, but I actually really like it there. It isn’t nearly as clean or as orderly as most of the other large European cities I’ve been to, but what it lacks in splendor it makes up for in character–the walls along the streets would often be covered with colorful graffiti murals.

I eventually went on a 2-week long road trip with a few good friends from the States. There were lots of fun moments getting stuck or stalling out inconveniently while getting used to driving a stick as I drove all the way from Lyon on the eastern side of France, through Dijon, up to Paris, out to Mont Saint-Michel, and back to Paris.

From Paris, I took a train to Bordeaux closer to the Western coast of France, where I spent a few weeks before and after my 2 weeks at Plum Village. Of everywhere I went in France, Bordeaux was probably my favorite city–beautiful architecture, lots of gorgeous public spaces, and a shimmering river that cuts through the city’s center.

When I came back from Plum Village, I bought a bus ticket to Lyon, often hailed as the gastronomic capital of France. I got a deal on a nice apartment in a lively area and spent my last 6 weeks there, occasionally splurging on expensive Michelin-rated meals. (For the record, my favorite restaurant in Lyon actually wasn’t any of the 1- or 2-star Michelin restaurants I ate at, but instead an up and coming restaurant called La Bijouterie.)

France was actually really tough for me. When I arrived in Marseille, I barely spoke the language, I was still reeling from breaking up with my Vietnamese girlfriend, and I was staying in this very strange AirBnB situation where it seemed like my host would kick himself out onto the couch so that he could advertise his bedroom as a private room for guests.

“Dimsum” at La Bijouterie, Lyon

I honestly didn’t make many friends in France, and I started to experience social isolation for the first time. I also felt poor for the first time, since I wasn’t making any income and prices in Europe were at least 2 to 3 times what I had been paying in Asia. There were a lot of moments in France when fear and self-doubt crept back in, and I resumed asking myself if I had torpedoed my career for nothing. I’m not hugely superstitious, but on one of my darkest days I remember having two people reach out to me on the same day to see if I’d be willing to take on some new consulting work. It almost felt like someone knew I needed help to get back on track.

Needless to say, I said yes to the consulting gigs, again at the expense of working on my own projects. I worked on a small project for the Robin Hood Army, built a website for my sister as a graduation gift, and starting working on the first version of I’m With Them. Along the way, I picked up another client building productivity software for a professional services firm in Hong Kong.

I didn’t intend for it to happen, but consulting for various clients turned into my full-time profession for awhile after that. It was reassuring to me to realize that my career was far from over just because I left Silicon Valley, and I found that it was much easier for me to be super self-accountable when I knew I wanted to impress my clients with my skills. It wasn’t what I had set out to do, but I learned that I could re-create my job in Silicon Valley on my own terms.

The New Stuff

Now we’re more-or-less caught-up to the last time I posted a real update. Since then I’ve spent 3 months in Morocco, a month in Bali, a month in India, a month back in Chiang Mai, almost 4 months in Taiwan, and am now writing from Medellín, Colombia. There’s still a lot of ground to cover.

Morocco

After 3 months in France, my visa finally ran out at the end of August. (As a US citizen, a standard tourist visa gives me 90 days out of every 180 in the Schengen Area, which covers pretty much all of Western Europe.) I moved to Morocco, thinking that it was the nearest non-Schengen French-speaking country, and vaguely recalling that a friend had long ago joked with me about moving our startup to Morocco to extend our runway.

Marrakesh

The courtyard in Bahia Palace, Marrakesh

My first stop in Morocco was Marrakesh, where I spent 2 weeks. Speaking candidly, I hated Marrakesh and my time there left a bad taste in my mouth toward both Morocco and Moroccan people that took weeks to go away. The best way I can describe Marrakesh is as the living image of what Moroccans think Westerners think Arabian Nights should look like. In my humble opinion, the city has completely sold its soul to tourism, which makes up the majority of the local economy. I’m sure it’s not actually all Marrakeshi people, but most of the locals you’ll meet in the streets give you in the impression that you’re a walking money bag–they want your money, and they have no qualms about lying to you or scamming you to get it. Given the maze-like streets and markets in Marrakesh, an extremely common tactic is to tell foreigners that streets are closed so they get even more lost and confused and ultimately pay for assistance. Most of these offers for assistance are phrased as a friendly favor, not as a service being sold for cash, so you’ll often feel confused when they flip and pressure you to compensate them for their time. Additionally, unlike most mature tourist economies, many vendors in Marrakesh give off a distinctive sense of entitlement–nowhere else in the world have I heard a street food vendor go so quickly from trying to hard sell you on buying his food to cussing you out in every language he knows simply because you weren’t interested in what he had to offer.

One of the many “souks”, or markets, in Marrakesh

Marrakesh was also the first city where I felt actively unsafe and on edge, despite having spent time in a lot of places that other people might not consider totally safe–Ho Chi Minh City or Marseille, for example. It’s awful, but I often tell people that my time in Marrakesh has given me more empathy for what it’s probably like to be a woman in today’s world. It was incredibly uncomfortable to feel like a target every time I’d walk around in public, and like everyone I met secretly or not so secretly wanted something from me. It was scary to feel like people might get aggressive if I did not or could not give them what they wanted.

Essaouira

All of this is to say that I was positively relieved to leave Marrakesh for Essaouira, another touristy town, this time on the coast. Essaouira is a beautiful walled city, once occupied by the Portuguese. Some people may actually recognize Essaouira as the set for Astapor in Game of Thrones.

For 5 weeks, I lived in a huge, beautiful apartment with a rooftop ocean view. Calm and relaxing with the sound of crashing waves and the occasional sea breeze, Essaouira was a welcome contrast to the hustle and bustle of Marrakesh. Gradually, I began to let my guard down and opened myself up to experiencing a different side of Morocco and its people.

An iconic view at the port of Essaouira, Morocco

I had other challenges in Essaouira, however, chief among them being a lack of community. The sense of social isolation that had begun in France deepened severely here, as I began to realize that my only potential friends were either locals, who I had trouble communicating with and relating to, and extremely transient tourists typically just passing through Essaouira for a couple of days. The closest things I had to friends were the staff at my favorite spots for breakfast and dinner. My loneliness was compounded by the void left by my ex-girlfriend, a wound which was still healing at the time, and which had been opened again by some recent communication with her. At times, I felt depressed and struggled harder than ever to keep myself focused and motivated. I spent a lot of time cooped up in my apartment, usually only leaving for breakfast, dinner, and the occasional coastal sunset.

Despite everything, when my AirBnB lease ended, I didn’t want to leave. For the first time in a long time, I had no idea where I was going next, and the uncertainty daunted me. I would almost have rathered the certainty of my notably dreary existence in Essaouira to the effort of facing the uncertainty and figuring out what to do next. Given my experience in Morocco up to this point, I might have considered leaving the country, but I had been talking to one of my clients in Hong Kong about the possibly of flying me out there to work on site for a month as part of my next contract with him. Not knowing yet whether or not that was going to pan out and the hope that if it did it would cover the long flight back out to Asia left me feeling kind of trapped in Morocco.

Taghazout

The beach in Taghazout, Morocco, at sunset

When I finally pulled myself together, I decided to move further down the coast to Taghazout, a touristy little surf town so small that you actually have to take a taxi to the next town over to find an ATM (and, of course, cash was king in Taghazout regardless). Though I grew up in San Diego and surfed when I was younger, I’m not actually much of a surfer these days, which should leave any reasonable person wondering why the hell I moved myself to a middle-of-nowhere surf town. The answer is that Taghazout is also the home to a reasonably well-known coworking and coliving spaces called SunDesk, which I wanted to try thinking that it might solve my isolation problem.

Fortunately, it did. While I have a lot of gripes about Taghazout as a place and am not honestly sure I’d go back, the community at SunDesk was wonderful–I got to know a lot of people pretty well, and was relieved to have interesting people to spend my meals, evenings, and weekends with.

While in Taghazout, I finally decided to stop waiting for my client to potentially send me to Asia, and instead bought a ticket to meet my sister in Bali, where she planned to do Yoga teacher training. With my dates set, I got serious about finishing my sightseeing rounds in Morocco, especially because I had a feeling I’d never be back.

Sahara Dessert, Fez, Chefchaouen, Tangier

Before leaving Morocco, I had a chance to spend almost a full week trekking in the Sahara Desert, which was an awesome experience. I went to the desert in Zagora, to the south, where the desert covers more area and the terrain is more varied. As we trekked, the scenes changed from a stony dryness to a fine-grained sand, and, finally, to a sea of sand dunes as far as the eye could see.

I made good friends with my guides, and we passed the time trading words in English, French, and Arabic. At night we would gather around the fire and enjoy a bowl of harira, a hearty, tomato-based soup that still makes my mouth water to think about.

This is what it looks like the get stuck in a sand storm in the Sahara Desert

The climax of my dessert experience was Erg Chegaga, a huge, nearly quarter-mile high sand dune that feels like a small mountain of sand.

I also ventured north to Fez, Chefchaouen, and Tangier before boarding my flight to Bali.

I actually really enjoyed Fez. It felt like it had all of the trappings, culture, and attractions of Marrakesh, but with an overall cleaner and safer vibe. Unlike Marrakesh, tour guides and vendors in Fez were very respectful and professional. Many of them seemed almost aware of Marrakesh’s horrible practices and would almost go out of their way to leave the opposite impression. If I could do it again, I would have spent more time in Fez and next to no time in Marrakesh. It was, however, super cold in Fez–much colder than I had ever expected any part of Morocco to be–and my wardrobe was not prepared for it.

Chefchaouen, famous for its distinctive blue streets, was another highlight for me. The town was very, very touristy, and I was given the distinct impression that they simply continue to re-paint the walls blue to continue attracting foreigners, but the vibe was calm and relaxing, much like Essaouira but up in the mountains instead of by the sea. I had the opportunity to go on some spectacular hikes in the nearby mountains of Akchour.

Tangier was a strange but interesting place. As the northern-most major Moroccan city, Tangier is a sea-side gateway to Europe, and the influence is obvious. However, since Morocco isn’t a terribly wealthy country, there was often a kind of funny juxtaposition of classic-though-poorly-maintained European architecture and a sense of poverty and squalor common to countries in the developing world. It was cool to see, but I’m not upset that I didn’t have much more than a night in Tangier.

Reflections

I can’t claim to have had the best experience in Morocco overall, but living there did challenge me in some interesting ways.

This was my first experience living in a pre-dominantly Muslim country so it took time to get used to things like the call to prayer from all of the nearby mosques. I was also surprised by how deeply religious and conservative the local culture is, and how much that seemed to dictate social norms. Many countries can point to a major religion as foundational to their predominant culture, but most of the time that influence feels more in the background at this point–you can find it if you go looking for it, but aside from the occasional temple, church, or shrine, you won’t constantly be reminded of it. In Morocco, on the other hand, religion feels very much in the foreground. I left with the impression that no sane Moroccan would ever be caught admitting to being anything other than a very devout Muslim. The rare secular Moroccan locals that I befriended confessed to me that they likely wouldn’t admit their atheism even to some of their close Moroccan friends. One friend even recounted for me how he had to hide the sounds, smells, and sights of his cooking during Ramadan–normally a time of ritual fasting–to avoid being persecuted by the local authorities for disobeying religion custom.

Morocco was also my first time visiting a country with a culture so different from my own that it was difficult for me to relate to people or predict their behavior. As an Asian-American, I feel pretty comfortable in stereotypically Western countries where my own Western upbringing can help me relate, and I also feel pretty comfortable in Asia where my loosely Chinese upbringing (thanks, Mom!) helps me to understand cultural values. But in a place like Morocco, where much of the local culture and values are derived from Islam, a religion and philosophy I haven’t spent much time with, I occasionally felt like I just couldn’t fathom what was going through peoples’ heads. Sometimes I think this cultural divide contributed to my feelings of unease or indignation in certain situations. Unlike in Asia where most places I go people assume I’m a local and likely treat me better for it, I always stuck out like a sore thumb in Morocco. Being so conscious of being different certainly put me more on the defensive. I now wonder if this is what my Europeans friends experience in, e.g. Vietnam, where they feel hyper aware of and hyper sensitive to being scammed in any way.

Pastilla, a Moroccan delicacy

I doubt I’ll make a special trip to return to Morocco, but that doesn’t mean Morocco doesn’t have many great things worth seeing and experiencing! In particular, I’ve come away with a huge appreciation for Moroccan cuisine. Many of their dishes are an absolutely ingenious merger of sweet and savory flavors. For example, pastilla, one of my absolute favorites, is kind of like a perfectly spiced puff-pastry Moroccan chicken pot pie topped with cinnamon and powdered sugar. It sounds strange at first, but is absolutely amazing when executed correctly. Additionally, despite some of my initial impressions, I met quite a few Moroccan people who blew me away with their kindness and cheer.

Bali, Indonesia

It hadn’t really been my intention to return to Asia in 2018. After things broke down with my Vietnamese ex, I had this funny idea that she could have the continent for awhile, and that I’d instead head to South America. Part of me admittedly worried that I wouldn’t have the strength and good sense to stay away, despite lingering feelings of pain and disappointment.

My sister talked me down, though, and lured by the prospect of traveling with her for a little while as well as the possibility of traveling in India with our parents, I boarded a plane to Bali, Indonesia in mid-November.

Sunset in Uluwatu, Bali

In the ~month I spent in Bali, I spent about 2 weeks in Canggu, about a week in Uluwatu, and another week in Ubud. It was all a bit of a whirlwind as I moved around with my sister a little more frequently than I’m accustomed to. I also had a major client deadline to launch I’m With Them in December/January, so I was working quite a bit between obligations to sightsee and spend quality time with my sister.

Overall, I enjoyed Bali–the cost of living is fairly low, there are plenty of cool things to see and do, and there are lots of other nomads. There’s a strong subculture in Bali centered around things like yoga, spiritualism, and health–not exactly my typical crowd, personally, but still cool all the same.

Sunrise over Mt. Batur, Bali

For those who like to surf, Canggu and Uluwatu on the coasts have a number of popular spots, with beaches often either walking distance or a short motorbike away. Ubud, more in the center of the island, has good access to a lot of cool nature spots and some of the more famous views of Bali’s rice terraces. I can particularly personally recommend a sunrise volcano hike up to the top of Mt. Batur.

Particularly relevant to a young, eligible bachelor, there are also a lot of single nomad women in Bali, which was a surprise because my experience so far had taught me that the nomad scene is predominantly dudes with the occasional woman traveling with her long-term boyfriend. It sort of makes sense–solo traveling isn’t as common for women as it is for men due to safety concerns, so one can reasonably expect there to be fewer nomad women as well. In some ways it felt like all of the single nomad women that ever existed had somehow conspired to congregate in Bali.

Tanah Lot Temple, Bali

It was also awesome to spend time with my sister, though she and I would occasionally argue over travel styles–by then I was pretty tired and fairly content to see or not see whatever, and she would sometimes become frustrated with my lack of strong enthusiasm or opinion. She and I have always been close, and particularly after my more recent spouts of isolation in France and Morocco, it was nice to have a constant companion.

Bali did, however, feel kind of overrun with expats and foreigners. Many of the major destinations had a very gentrified feeling to them, creating a tangible privilege gap. It’s hard to know what to feel when you talk to hard-working Balinese business owners who want to travel, but have to literally save for a decade to afford even a shoe-string vacation to somewhere like Europe. Where is the fairness in that? What have we done to deserve what so many will never be able to afford? And what must it be like to serve people everyday who take privileges like these for granted?

India

After Bali, my sister and I flew into New Delhi, India, in early December to meet our parents for 3.5 weeks of sightseeing in India. I won’t say much in detail about this, but this was essentially all time off for the holidays. While I got to see a lot of really cool sites in India, I have to say that I really didn’t enjoy the experience of being a full-time tourist for so long. I’ve become rather accustomed to my typical mode of travel–long stints of time in one place, with most of the sightseeing spread out over the occasional weekend. It’s ironic because, as my sister is quick to remind me, I used to very much be the type to “maximize” every minute in a new place. My mentality now is a lot more… relaxed. I don’t feel nearly as scarce about my vacation days or about my ability to return to places I’d like to see again as I used to. These days I would prefer learning what it’s like to live my life, embedding in the local culture, and establishing a routine in a new place over checking tourist sites off of a list as efficiently as I can.

I know visiting India for the first time is a life- and perspective-changing experience for many people, but I didn’t really feel that way myself. Perhaps it’s simply because our itinerary mostly took us through tourist traps, or perhaps it’s because I’ve seen and experienced enough at this point that the perspective-enhancing returns are diminishing. That said, here are a couple surprising (though shallow) learnings from India:

  • Contrary to my previous stereotype that all Indians love super spicy food, most Northern Indians don’t seem to actually eat spicy (at least, not in the hot sense) and will even actively shun spicy food. I couldn’t find a spicy option at virtually any restaurant I ate at.
  • From many of my tour guides, I learned that the food we typically think of as Indian in America is actually Mughlai, heavily influenced by the Mongol conquerers of India.

After nearly a month of sightseeing, things really started to blur together, but some of my favorite memories were:

  • Trying Jalebi, one of my new favorite simple desserts :d
  • Visiting the Taj Mahal.
  • Visiting the kitchen of a Jain temple where they produce thousands (maybe more?) of free meals during every service.
  • Spending a day on a house boat in Kerala, in the south of India.
  • Watching the local Keralan custom of burning an effigy of an old man to ring in the new year. (The figure looks a little like Santa Clause, but I think is meant to just represent leaving the past year behind.)

Chiang Mai, Thailand (Reprise)

Coming back from India, I was kind of sick of sightseeing and feeling very ready to get back to work. One of my clients had finally given me a definite launch date for I’m With Them, and I knew that January was going to be busy a month getting everything ready. I had also previously planned to meet two close friends (my original roommates back in Chiang Mai the first time!) in Taipei early February, so I only had a month wherever I went next.

I chose to return to Chiang Mai because a few friends were there already (community? check), and because I knew exactly what I was going to get. My sister decided to tag along for a couple weeks, not totally sure where she was going to travel next before returning to the States.

I hit the ground running in Thailand and worked pretty long hours to support the big product lunch. At one point, I had to switch to a nocturnal schedule to be sure I’d be awake during Pacific business hours in case anything spontaneously combusted. Most of my time was spent in my favorite spots to work, like Nine One Coffee, Barisotel, and Camp. Occasionally I’d get away long enough for a session training Muay Thai or to take my sister, who had come with me after India, to one of Chiang Mai’s many night markets.

The White Temple in Chiang Rai, Thailand

I didn’t have much time for anything other than work in Chiang Mai this time around, which was fine since I’d seen most of the things I wanted to see the first time I came. I did visit Chiang Rai, another popular town in northern Thailand with a few famous temples and art emplacements. I also executed my first legit border run by driving a motorbike north to the Burmese border and crossing for lunch in another country before walking back across to Thailand.

Taipei, Taiwan

In February, I moved to Taiwan for ~4 months with the intentions of:

  1. Improving my Mandarin Chinese
  2. Better understanding my cultural roots
  3. Reconnecting with extended family abroad

Much of the recountable history on both sides of my family traces back to Taiwan. My mother was actually born in Taipei, Taiwan’s capital, and lived there for about 7 years before immigrating to the States. Ironically, despite not speaking a word of English when she got here, my mother went on to become an editor, and then a marketing executive. Despite the best efforts of my English teachers growing up, I learned pretty much everything I know about writing and communication from my immigrant mother–you’d never guess her first language wasn’t English.

My aunt’s delicious home-made beef noodle soup

My maternal grandfather was a well-respected Taiwanese businessman. He owned a successful import/export business, but lost much of his wealth after moving his family to the States. Through my grandfather, my mother’s family counts Terry Guo, the founder of Foxconn and one of the richest men in Taiwan, as a family friend. Apparently Terry Guo’s father worked for my grandfather in some capacity, and my grandfather always went out of his way to help him and his family.

On my father’s side, both of my grandparents emigrated from Taiwan to the States. My grandfather’s grandfather was a man named Qiu Fengjia (丘逢甲). During the First Sino-Japanese War, the Chinese Empire ceded the island of Taiwan to the Japanese, but there were many Chinese nationals that weren’t willing to give up Taiwan so easily. Qiu Fengjia was a leader in the resistance movement against the Japanese, and became the Vice-President of an independent Taiwan that existed briefly in 1895 before the resistance was crushed. Taiwan was occupied by the Japanese for about 50 years after that, ending only after Taiwan was returned to China when Japan surrendered at the end of World War II. I’ve never been able to learn much about my great great grandfather on my own, but he apparently appears in Taiwanese history books and even has a university named after him in Taichung. I gave a talk to a group of high school students while I was in Taiwan recently, and when I mentioned my relation to Qiu Fengjia in order to help introduce myself the whole room went up in excited ooh’s and ah’s–a much larger reaction than I would have expected for what seems like a fairly minor historical figure.

Launching a lantern with my sister at the Ping Xi lantern festival in Taiwan

Anyway, the last time I had been to Taiwan was in 2015, shortly after graduating from college. I remember loving my trip, but feeling a strong cultural disconnect–like there was so much more I should be able to understand and experience in this place that I simply couldn’t because my Chinese was nowhere near up to par. I wanted to feel like I could belong in Taiwan because I knew some of my recent ancestors were so in love with it, but I couldn’t help but feel like a complete outsider. I think it was probably after and because of that trip that learning Chinese started consistently appearing in my annual goals.

My Chinese is still a work in progress, but I learned a lot, and I had a fantastic time in Taiwan this time around. So fantastic, in fact, that I’ve already loosely blocked out 3 months out of each year to return to Taipei.

Enjoying a hike in Taroko Gorge, Taiwan

Particularly from a nomad’s perspective, Taipei is truly a magical place. For a developed, first-world capital city, Taipei is shockingly affordable–I paid $600/mo for a private room and shower in one of the most centrally-located parts of the city, and I probably could have gotten the same for cheaper. The food scene in Taiwan is amazing and also very affordable–the night markets are world-class, and you can find an array of Chinese, Taiwanese, and Japanese delicacies pretty much everywhere you go, often for as cheap as $3-5 for a meal. There’s a good amount of English in Taipei, but it can be hard to get around if you don’t speak some Chinese. That said, people in Taiwan are super friendly. I often like to joke that if you get lost in Taiwan, not only will someone patiently help you find your way, they’ll probably also give you a puppy. Ok, they’re not quite that nice, but seriously, of all the places I’ve been, I’ve probably felt the safest in Taiwan, and that owes largely to how friendly, hospitable, trustworthy, and honorable the average person is there.

Because I had been to Taiwan, and because I knew very quickly that I would be definitely be back, and soon, I didn’t actually spend that much time exploring in Taiwan. There’s a lot of spectacular nature, and amazing mountain hiking that I’d still really love to do in Taiwan, but most of my time there was spent working hard towards my goals–launching projects, growing my business, learning Chinese, getting in shape, etc.–or hanging out with friends. I’d say my life was pretty normal, and pretty average, and I honestly found it really nice.

While in Taiwan, I signed a new contract with an existing client, and finally started having about half of my time available to work on my own projects. Using everything I’ve learned in the last 2 years from numerous client projects, I’ve started working on the next iteration of Serenity. I’m going to nerd out for a few seconds here, but I’m really excited about the technology I’m working with right now–I’m experimenting with efficient workflows for simultaneously building for both web and mobile to see if it’s possible to quickly get to market with both (Serenity, particularly, requires at least a small mobile component in order to compete with existing solutions). Things are going pretty well, though I invested a lot of the time while I was in Taiwan into my tooling rather than features. While in Taiwan I also started working on a project for nomads with two close nomadic friends. The projects been evolving, and has turned into something we’re calling Tribe. I’ll describe it in greater detail soon.

Where Am I Now?

I’m down in Medellin, Colombia, where I’ve been living for almost the last 3 months. I’ll be moving again soon, this time to Mexico City, Mexico, where I’m also hoping to spend about 3 months. Mostly, I’ve been working on my Spanish, learning to salsa dance, and working a crap ton. In the coming weeks, I’m hoping to launch a beta version of Tribe. Ideally by the end of September, we’ll launch an MVP and see if it sticks.

I’ve got a lot to say about Colombia, but it’s going to have to wait until next time. (Not too long, though, I promise!!)

Why Haven’t I Been Writing More?

I imagine that some people have it in their heads that I’m constantly traveling, exploring, and adventuring–that my life consists of tromping through jungles or wrestling sharks or seducing beautiful and exotic women (I don’t know, whatever passes for your probably overly masculine ideal of adventure these days). At least, this is the impression I sometimes get from my friends and family who always seem surprised to hear that, yes, I do actually still work and, no, even though I technically could take way more time off than the average individual, I usually don’t because I still have my own professional goals and priorities to focus on, too.

The truth is often my daily life is pretty mundane, and on average I’m quite happy with that. I recently spent almost 4 months in Taipei, Taiwan and often when people would ask me what I’d had a chance to see since coming to Taiwan I’d have to say that mostly I spent my time in the same two or three rooms, eating more-or-less the same two or three meals. I’d work during the day, go the gym, hang out with friends in the evening. On weekends I’d go hiking, read a book, play some video games, or cook a fun meal at home to share. In short I was just… living my life the way most people would do just about anywhere else.

At first, I felt almost ashamed and embarrassed that I hadn’t been on the grand adventure I knew people were expecting me to tell them about. Given time though, I realized that I’m pretty happy right where I am doing exactly what I’m doing despite the relatively unremarkable repetition. Perhaps that by itself is a pretty remarkable thing, especially given that that certainly hasn’t been true everywhere I’ve been. As a wise friend once commented, if our lives are mostly made up of average, unremarkable days, then maybe the best we can hope for is to make our average, unremarkable days as fulfilling as they can be.

All of this is to say that I don’t always have so much to say about my travels so sometimes I struggle with what to write. I tend to prefer to err on the side of silence rather than monotonous repetition.

I’m already planning my next post about Colombia and I’m hoping it’ll include a narrative of my impressions, as well as a breakdown of my lifestyle, routine, and budget–I’ve started tracking it more closely so I can start doing this in each country!–and, if I work hard at it, maybe a quick plug for a few new projects I’m working on. So I’ll be back again soon, once I feel that there’s another complete chapter to write about. In the meantime, if you got down this far and you enjoy reading my musings, please consider subscribing to my email list both to be the first to hear about my next post, and to remind me that there may actually be people waiting around for it. I’d also love some feedback! In the comments below, please take some time to tell me: what aspects of these posts do you find most interesting? What do you want more of?

Since 2016, I’ve been writing down my annual goals and sharing them here to keep myself accountable. Since then, the process has evolved and a good number of these self-promises have been fulfilled–like completing an Ironman, taking a more authentic tack in my career, or challenging myself to get over my fear of rejection.

This year, my goals are shaped by the insight that I don’t intend to travel the way I am now for the rest of my life. I’ve had plenty of great experiences, and I’ve learned a lot, but I’m not certain this lifestyle is sustainable for me. In some ways, I’m already quite tired of moving around so much–constantly uprooting is fast losing its appeal and taking its toll. I’m also starting to see the benefit of longer stays, as they allow me to settle into a routine, engage in communities, and form deeper relationships with people. Eventually, I can see myself picking a few places to spend most of my time. I’m not quite ready to give up traveling, however. There are a few things that are easier to do while on the road that I’d like to accomplish first:

  • Reach conversational fluency in French, Spanish, Chinese, and Japanese.
    • A continuation of my goal to become a polyglot, motivated by a desire to more deeply experience foreign cultures and mindsets.
  • Attend culinary programs in France and Japan, ideally in native language.
    • I just really enjoy the experience of food and cooking. I see food as a way to experience new cultures, bring people together, and express myself. I don’t really have plans to become a professional chef, however.
    • I have my eye on Le Cordon Bleu and Tokyo Sushi Academy, but admittedly don’t know much yet about how actually attending them would work or what my alternatives are.
  • Spend a few months volunteering in a developing country.
    • To continue furthering my understanding of the problems facing the underprivileged and begin to understand how I can best be of service.
  • Experience what it’s like to live in a multitude of different cities, countries, and situations.
    • So when I’m ready to pick somewhere to settle down I have a better idea of what I’m looking for and why.
  • Generate profit of at least $5000/mo from independent business ventures (consulting does not count!!)
    • While it doesn’t sound like a lot, this is potentially enough to pay my living expenses plus a small amount of disposable income almost anywhere in the world.

I don’t think it makes sense to divert my attention towards hobbyist culinary pursuits before I have a stable income source, so this year I’ll be focusing mostly on my business ventures while attempting to pull my Chinese and Spanish levels up to where my French is now.

My overall goals therefore don’t look much different from how they did last year, though they are once again slimmed down to concentrate on what I think is really important:

  • Running my own business
    • Launch 4-6 (more ideally, 8-12) different projects this year. These don’t all have to be of the same magnitude or significance, but they should all have some monetization plan from the beginning. Learn to scope projects well, learn not to be afraid of throwing something over the fence before it’s perfect, and really get the process down to a science.
    • Limit consulting work to only what’s necessary to a) maintain the business so it remains a viable fallback strategy and b) pay my annual living budget plus some money to invest in retirement. (~$30k)
  • Reach conversational fluency in Chinese.
    • Spend at least 3 months in Chinese-speaking countries. Push to have a natural language conversation every day.
  • Reach conversational fluency in Spanish.
    • Spend at least 3 months in Spanish-speaking countries. Push to have a natural language conversation every day.
  • Travel
    • Meet new people and have adventures wherever I go. Don’t get so singularly focused on running a business that I become a shut-in.
  • Mindfulness
    • Meditate for at least 20 minutes every day.
  • Reading
    • Read or listen to 52 books.
  • Learn to start conversations with women I’m attracted to
    • Why
      • This is a continuation of previous goals of mine to become more comfortable dating and learn not to turn into a nervous puddle around women I’m attracted to. I think I’ve actually made a lot of progress on this–dating for me is now less about scrambling to figure out how to nervously impress a woman simply because I think she’s a woman or because I think she’s pretty, and more about investigating whether or not she’s actually someone I’d want to spend more time with.I think overall, I’m settling into to two realizations: 1) that I’m a good guy, and a rare kind of guy whom plenty of women would be lucky to have in their life and 2) the kind of woman I’m looking for is likewise pretty rare, and most women I meet aren’t going to be a good fit, so there’s no need to get so emotionally invested until I assess the fit. The one place where I still have a lot of trouble, though, is actually meeting new women and asking them out on dates. I’m not really sure I’m ready for another go at a serious relationship, but I think I am ready to get over my anxieties around approaching and starting conversations with women.
    • Key Results
      • Start a conversation with at least one woman I’d like to talk to each week.
        • The goal isn’t  necessarily to land a phone number or a date, but rather simply to gain more experience feeling the desire to talk with someone and then following through on doing it. It also doesn’t matter what I say, or how long the conversation lasts, just that I make the leap to start it. The rest, I think, will take care of itself with reps.

Since I failed to make as much progress as I’d hoped to last year on a similar goal set, I’m making a few changes this year.

First, in order to promote the conditions for focus and general well-being, I’m slowing down my travel rate. Last year I thought that one month in a city or a country would be a long time. The truth is, with only a month, I get about a week to get my bearings, a week to start feeling at home, and then by the end of two weeks I start emotionally divesting because I realize I’m already leaving again so soon. My solution is to increase my typical stay to three months instead of just one or to spend shorter stays in places where I’m already familiar and already know people. Specifically, I’m already scheming to spend three months in Taiwan, where I hope to practice my Mandarin and connect more deeply with my cultural heritage, and loosely planning to spend 6-ish months in South and Central America (potentially Medellin in Colombia and Mexico City).

Second, in addition to my typical OKR style for goals, I’m defining a set of habits I’d like to develop this year to support my goals. As the famous quote goes, “We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit.” (Fun fact: this quote comes from American philosopher Will Durant, but is often apocryphally attributed to Aristotle.) The importance of habits is several fold: they lend themselves well to routines, which I’m realizing are important for creating a sense of structure, normalcy, and continuity despite how often I change my setting, and despite whatever emotional state I’m in; additionally, for longer-term goals that can’t be accomplished in just a day, a week, or even in a month, or a year, habits are the most effective way to make consistent progress. Self-motivation, I found in 2018, can be really fickle, especially because I’m an impatient person prone to becoming discouraged when I perceive a lack of progress. Self-discipline through habits is my new strategy–I trust that if I can muster the discipline to maintain my habits, then I am making certain progress towards where I want to go even if I can’t see a daily difference.

Here are the habits I’d like to establish this year, and keep for life:

  • Daily
    • Wake up early, and at the same time each day, without the snooze button
      • I find that I operate best when I’m up early enough to take care of all of my self-care habits and still feel like I’m getting to work early. Conversely, if I wake up too late then I feel constantly behind for the rest of the day, which usually just results in me skipping my morning routine.
    • Exercise
      • Likely some combination of running, cycling, swimming, weightlifting, and martial arts.
    • Meditate
    • Complete my Anki reviews
      • These are my self-made spaced-repetition flashcards for a variety of topics, including language. This is my primary engine for learning and remembering information with the lowest overall effort.
    • Review tomorrow’s action list and meetings at the end of the day
    • Reach inbox zero every day, but never do email first thing in the morning
      • My best energy is always in the morning. I want to reserve it for things that really require it.
    • Log at least 6 hours of productive work
      • This translates to two 2-4 hour working sessions each day, one before lunch, and one after. On busier days each session can be longer, and an additional session can optionally be added before dinner.
    • Read before bed
      • While this also builds reading as a habit into my day, this one also ideally pushes out other bad nighttime habits which sometimes result in unplanned loss of sleep, which tends to unravel the entire routine. For example, I’m often fond of winding down through Netflix or video games, both of which I sometimes have a hard time stopping.
    • Get 8 hours of sleep every night
      • Feeling too tired to function is also something that commonly unravels my daily routines. Coffee only solves the problem so much…
  • Weekly
    • Reach out to family and friends
    • At least one language exchange in all languages I’m actively studying
    • Review next week’s action list and meetings at the end of the week
    • Spend a few hours optimizing a process in my life or working on something important but not urgent
  • Monthly
    • At least one language exchange in all languages I’m passively maintaining
    • Review my personal budget and finances, and re-strategize for the next month as necessary
  • Quarterly
    • Make sure my business finances are up-to-date
    • Self-review on progress toward annual goals
  • Annually
    • Review these goals and formulate new ones.

Most of these are habits that I’ve had at various points, but haven’t kept consistently. In order to avoid overwhelming myself, I’ll be introducing these habits in phases, perhaps a few at a time every 15-30 days. An ideal outcome this year is that all of these things become reflexive habit, and that they guide me towards success in the larger goal set. I’ll be searching for or creating software to help me with these things when I struggle.

This year I’m also giving myself a few deep thematic questions to ponder, as I think it’s imperative to continue developing my personal philosophy, and I’d like to start doing so intentionally. Here are some questions on my mind:

  • What goal for individuals, governments, and societies does the present day American ethic implicitly or explicitly espouse? How does this differ from other nations?
    • Whether or not we consciously know what motivates us, our behaviors stem from our motivations. I’d like to dig deeper into the motivations that drive the American ethic, and begin to compare them to what I’ve observed during my travels.
  • What is the relationship between happiness, meaning, and purpose?
    • I started to explore this while at Plum Village this year, but I think there’s something we look for beyond just happiness. I don’t think happiness and joy don’t exist without pain and suffering anymore than light does without dark. I think someone can feel happy, but still feel like something is missing. I’d like to explore this further.
  • What does the philosophy of ethics have to say about the goal of life and how to realize it?
    • Exploring this question led me to insights from Stoicism and Buddhism, but I’m far from having as deep an understanding of them as I’d like, and I haven’t familiarized myself enough with other ethical frameworks to see where I do and don’t agree.
  • What is value, really? And how does currency capture it?
    • In Silicon Valley, we used to like to talk about creating value for people, and I’m realizing that I understand this phrasing intuitively, but when I dig into it it’s hard to define exactly what “value” is, why people pay for it, and how we quantify it. It seems to me that we purchase things in order to help us achieve certain aims, so the economic value of a thing is somehow tied to how well it helps us to achieve those aims. As other questions on this list have suggested, I have a lot of questions about what people aim for and why, and I have a hunch that these questions are related.

I’ll let these questions loosely guide my travels, my conversations, and my reading this year. Perhaps I’ll find time to write essays about my findings.

I’m optimistic that 2019 will be a good year. I learned a lot in 2018, and I’m excited to apply those learnings, and feeling ready to face some new challenges. Wish me luck!

Reflections

Truthfully, I’ve struggled with what to say about 2018. It’s been a strange and challenging year, less certain and less structured than any to date. I didn’t exactly accomplish what I set out to–2018 wasn’t the year that my business ventures took off, nor the year I qualified for the Boston marathon, or even the year I finally read 52 books. In fact, where my annual goals are concerned, 2018 has felt less fruitful than previous years–I probably deserve a D+ or a C- at best for my efforts.

Yet I hesitate to classify 2018 as a failure. I may not have accomplished everything I had hoped to, but it was nevertheless a year full of adventures–of new places, new people, and new experiences. It was certainly a year full of learning, both about myself and about the world. It was the year I learned to become versatile and adaptable in the face of unpredictable and sometimes uncomfortable circumstances. It was the year I developed a deep faith in my ability to calmly deal with whatever life throws at me. It was the year I confirmed my life won’t spontaneously combust if I step off the well-paved career path.

Goal-wise, I did accomplish a few things worth mentioning this year, however. Though I failed to bring a product of my own to market, I ended up spending a lot of time on consulting projects. I’ve had five different clients of varying sizes, ultimately bringing in more annual income than I expected to. In the process, I’ve learned that even in the absence of a full-time employer, my skill set is valuable enough that I can do just as well as a consulting Chief Technology Officer working remotely as I did as a career software engineer in Silicon Valley. I have discovered I have the power to create the job I had always hoped I’d have at Palantir–learning new languages while working from interesting places around the world, picking and choosing impactful projects that suit my interests, and gaining experience and exposure working on many different things in a single year.

Additionally, after nearly 6 months in French-speaking countries, I’ve gone from too terrified and embarrassed to buy necessities at the local pharmacy–you would not believe how many ways there are to misunderstand someone asking you if you’d like a bag–to conversant with occasional comments that my accent is good for a non-native speaker. In the process, I’ve also practiced techniques for learning and maintaining languages that I’m preparing to apply to Chinese, Japanese, and Spanish. There’s still a long way to full fluency, but I now understand enough of what’s said to me to carry on conversations with French travelers I meet on the road, can watch some French television without being totally lost, can read simple books like Le Petit Prince and L’Alchemiste, and can usually communicate myself without too much stumbling. What’s left is mostly expanding my vocabulary, which I can now do in natural language by consuming books and movies, and more practice expressing myself, which I can do through conversation and writing.

On top of all of that, I have had the good fortune to live in more countries this year than some will have the opportunity to visit in their entire lives. I explored the mountains and jungles of Thailand; I fell in love in Vietnam; I ate gourmet meals in France; I wandered the deserts of Morocco; I enjoyed the beaches of Bali; and I visited the temples and monuments of India.

But perhaps more important than what I’ve seen and what I’ve done are the new insights and perspectives I’ve gained.

I have a better understanding of what it means to love and be loved. I fell in love unexpectedly this year, and that love taught me that my theories about love and authenticity don’t have to just be theories. That love also taught me about how to practice the compassionate love that we often associate with figures like the Buddha, Jesus, Gandhi, and MLK. There was no happy ending, unfortunately, but in the process I learned about forgiveness–how difficult it can be, but also how important it is.

I have a better understanding of the effects of tourism and globalization on the world. I’ve been to places (cough Marrakesh cough) that seem to have sacrificed their authentic cultural identity for profit from staged tourism. Having visited expat and tourism conclaves in various countries, I’ve seen the effects of gentrification–sometimes positive, sometimes negative–on faraway lands. I’ve seen entire local communities and cities change their lifestyle to serve expats and tourists. I have mixed feelings about a lot of this. I’ve begun to wonder if the emigration of the privileged is a form of modern colonialism.

I have a better understanding now of how privileged I am. I’ve lived in deeloping countries and witnessed their growing pains–the poverty and hardship of people as they and their nations struggle to find their place in rapidly evolving local and global economies. I’ve met people in many countries who could never even dream of traveling the way I am now. Sometimes it’s because they’ll never have the wealth–a decade of honest hard work and savings in Indonesia may barely purchase a month of shoestring travel in Europe. Other times it’s because their passports won’t open the doors mine will–for many Vietnamese citizens, acquiring a visa to visit Europe or the United States is little more than a diplomatic and bureaucratic pipe dream. I’ve met brilliant, talented people who deserved opportunities their families couldn’t afford to give them, even with significant financial assistance. These inequities, often a result of simple birth lottery, are hard to stomach. What did I do to deserve what so many will never have?

I have a better understanding now of what it means to be American and how being American has subtly influenced my worldview. I think many Asian Americans, and probably other minorities, too, grow up with a sense of identity dispossession–a feeling of half belonging to a here that may never fully understand you, and to a somewhere else that may never truly accept you. I have to admit, though I know it’s unpatriotic, that at least in part because of that dissonance, I’ve seldom felt deeply proud to be American. It’s been through conversations with people around the world where remarks that an expression, an idea, or an ideal was rather American that I’ve started to become more aware of what that means, both to them and to me. For the most part, I find that I’m proud of these things, and that they’re very core to my personal ideals–things like a belief in self-determinism, a strong work ethic (though some may argue the American work ethic is a bit all-consuming, and I’d agree), and an imperative to have the freedom to choose one’s own path and follow one’s dreams. Perhaps a sense for the deeper American cultural identity has gotten lost in today’s divisive, entrenched, and embittered political rhetoric. It’s taken leaving the country to recognize that that identity is undeniably part of my own, and that I am, in fact, proud of it, even if I don’t completely agree with every manifestation of American ideals.

Goals be damned, I wouldn’t trade precious learnings like these for anything. They and my travels have changed me; I am not the same person I was when I left Silicon Valley and in time I hope that will prove to be a good thing.

Of course, all of this is not without its own great cost. The freedom to travel demands certain sacrifices, and comes with assumed hardships. I’ve had to leave family and old friends behind to pursue this lifestyle, and as is always the case with physical distance, it can be difficult to stay in touch and participate in their lives the same way. I’ve had to put many of my hobbies on hold–cooking, sailing, improv, and triathlons, for example–since outlets for them have been inconsistently available around the world. I’ve had to endure periods of isolation and loneliness, sometimes starved for real, meaningful connection given the often transient nature of friendships between travelers and nomads.

In my darkest moments this year, I’ve felt anxious, depressive, and alone. I’ve worried that I’m wasting my precious time and youth–that instead of deepening relationships, furthering my career, or building long-term financial stability, I’ve squandered my opportunities for some high-minded, pointless, and never ending quest for freedom, truth, and authenticity. And I’ve asked some really tough questions this year like what is the deeper, overarching goal of my life? Of anyone’s life? Of society, and humanity at large? Given that our lives are short and we take nothing with us when they end, what really matters? Everything? Nothing? I’ve gone through my own version of a “crisis of faith”, an ordeal I’ve become fond of calling a “crisis of meaning” as someone close to me used to say.

I don’t have answers or even substantiated opinions to many of these questions yet, and in the darker moments that honestly scares me–I personally struggle to function in a vacuum of meaning or direction. Yet I have conviction that these are, at least, the right questions, and that they’re not asked often enough. These are the questions that define our individual motivations and, more broadly, the motivations of our governments and societies, which exist–or at least, in my idealist mind, should exist–to collectively protect and advance the interests of their individual constituents. If we cannot clearly communicate what we are striving for, and why we are striving for it, I don’t think we can ever hope to attain it. For now at least, I am content to explore these questions. Maybe that’s as much as anyone can ever hope for.

All of this–the goods, the bads, the ups, and the downs–has been an important part of my ongoing journey. I wouldn’t have it any other way. Things may not have gone exactly the way I wanted in 2018 with respect to my goals, my romantic life, or my career, but I think I’m better for the wear, and I’m certainly not ready to give up in 2019.

Review

  • Running my own business
    • As hard or as scary as it gets, stick with it for the entire year. Don’t take on consulting projects unless they’re actually really interesting, or I somehow really need the money (I shouldn’t this year).
      • Haha yeah, this didn’t happen. I didn’t really need the money but I spent more than half the year consulting. A few of these projects met the “really interesting” criteria.
    • Launch 4-6 (more ideally, 8-12) different projects this year. These don’t all have to be of the same magnitude or significance, but they should all have some monetization plan from the beginning. Learn to scope projects well, learn not to be afraid of throwing something over the fence before it’s perfect, and really get the process down to a science.
      • If we allow for consulting projects here, then my count reaches ~5. Some of these were multi-week projects, others were multi-month projects.
        • Two of these projects are currently in their final stages and should wrap up in early 2019.
        • Two of these have been for non-profits with causes I wanted to support.
      • I didn’t complete a single project that wasn’t client-related this year.
  • Travel
    • Meet new people and have adventures wherever I go. Try to spend every weekend doing something exciting, new, or terrifying. Don’t get so singularly focused on running a business that I become a shut-in.
      • I didn’t exactly follow this to the letter, as toward the end I started to feel burnt out by traveling and FOMO. By October, all I really wanted was a quiet weekend to myself. That said, I feel comfortable saying that obeyed the spirit of this. If anything, I think I could have stood to focus more on my business this year.
  • Mindfulness
    • Attend a 2-week mindfulness retreat.
    • Complete the Headspace Pro series in one continuous streak.
      • I completed the Headspace Pro series, but didn’t exactly do it in one continuous streak. It sort of got broken into several long chunks…
    • Meditate for at least 20 minutes every day.
      • As usual, this happened a lot when I felt it was needed, and less when I felt it wasn’t. I need to work on incorporating this more consistently into my life.
  • Reading
      • Read or listen to 52 books this year.
        • Compared to previous years, I barely did any reading. I read ~18 books this year. Highlights included:
          • Hyperion by Dan Simmons
          • Siddhartha by Hermann Hesse
          • Kitchen Confidential by Anthony Bourdain
          • Flowers for Algernon by Daniel Keyes
          • The Daily Stoic by Ryan Holiday
          • The Game by Neil Strauss
            • This one’s controversial, I know. I don’t really agree with the ethic of the pick-up community, but it was an entertaining and interesting read.
  • Compete in the Boston Marathon
    • Complete Hal Higdon’s Intermediate 2 marathon training schedule.
    • Complete Hal Higdon’s Advanced 1 marathon training schedule.
    • Complete a marathon in 3.5 hours. (If I’m lucky, I’ll qualify for Boston this year and race next year. Will need to see how training goes, though.)
    • None of these happened this year. Self-motivation problems aside, I found it surprisingly difficult to train for marathons while abroad. In Asia, the air quality and traffic is often too bad to run outside. Additionally, my running shoes wore out and I started to get injured. As I’m very particular about running shoes, I had a hard time replacing them while traveling.
    • While I intend to continue running and maintaining fitness, I think the Boston Marathon may have to wait.
  • Become conversationally fluent in French
    • Spend at least 3 months in French-speaking countries in 2018.
      • I spent 3 months in France, and 3 months in Morocco, where French is also reasonably prevalent.
    • While in French-speaking countries, actively push to have a conversation in French every single day, no matter how uncomfortable, awkward, or broken my spoken French is.
      • I’m not sure this exactly happened, but I made a strong effort and had some fun interactions in French.
        • One very early morning in Bordeaux, I was stuck trying to explain to taxi dispatch over the phone where I was because I was worried my 20-min away Uber would make me late for my bus to Lyon.
        • I taught a kid to play chess in French while at Plum Village.
        • Communicating with my Sahara desert guides in (their) broken French and (my) broken Darija (Moroccan Arabic).
    • I’m not quite conversationally fluent, but I can make conversation in French and, depending on the topic, I can come across quite fluent for a non-trivial amount of time.

If I had to sum up, I think the major blockers this year were a lack of focus, and a sense of either social, financial, or career insecurity. The lack of focus comes from moving around too much, sometimes spending as little as a couple days or a couple weeks in a place before moving on. A lot of my energy went into traveling, and past that a lot of my energy went into dealing with the occasional sense of social isolation. (There were long periods of this in both France and Morocco in cities where there aren’t a lot of nomads and I couldn’t find a sense of community. Breaking up with my ex around when I left for France probably also didn’t help.) I’ve found that there is a threshold beyond which too much discomfort makes it difficult to self-motivate, though where exactly that threshold is likely depends on the individual and how much practice they’ve had gracefully weathering hardship.

In overly uncomfortable situations, my career- and ego-related anxieties got the better of me and I found refuge in consulting work. I’m finding that the security of the consulting work does lessen the discomfort, however–for an entrepreneur, it’s refreshing to have the certainty of building something someone expressly wants and will pay you for. There’s likely a place for consulting in my life, but I hope to do less of it overall in 2019–no more than a couple months out of the year for now, and then only when the project and the pay are interesting.

In 2019 I’ll need to focus more, both by further slimming my list of goals so I don’t spread my energy too thin, and by spending less time moving around. Where possible, I should spend more time in places where I already have friends or know that I can find a strong community to combat a sense of isolation. Co-working and co-living spaces are a good potential solution to this, so I plan to be less stingy about shelling out money for them–the real value of a good co-working space is in its community.

It will also pay in 2019 to solidify some habits and routines that will keep me productive. Especially with the discontinuity of moving around, creating a sense of continuity, structure, and normalcy will be crucial.

I wrote last week about why I went to a Buddhist monastery. This week I’m writing about the experience itself.

I didn’t really know what to expect when I arrived at Plum Village, a mindfulness practice center and Buddhist monastery near Bordeaux, France, but I went in hoping to find some peace, to learn more about mindfulness, and to learn a little more about Buddhism. Originally, I had planned to spend one week in Plum Village. I was intrigued enough by the end of that week to extend my stay for a second.

My first week was peaceful and joyous. There were moments when I was legitimately nearly moved to joyous tears. I felt happy, safe, connected to others, and very deeply at peace. Though I had started practicing mindfulness years before even hearing about Plum Village, my first week showed me heights and benefits of mindfulness I hadn’t thought possible. I was humbled to realize that I had previously only just scratched the surface and simultaneously excited to discover how much I had yet to learn.

By contrast, my second week was turbulent and emotional. I cried several times. I spent more time alone looking deeply within myself, and began to better understand the nature of sources of pain I hadn’t even entirely realized I had been running from. There’s a still long way to go, but the beginnings of that awareness combined with the wisdom of some of my mentors in Plum Village started me on the path toward healing and armed me tools I’m sure I’ll need to see the journey through.

I will, however, be the last to claim that everything about Plum Village was rosy and amazing. In fact, parts of my experience were initially rather mixed–I recoiled from a distinctly church-like vibe I got from some of the activities, and can’t honestly claim to have been inspired by or impressed with every Plum Village monk or nun I met. Many of the people I met at Plum Village had been coming back for years or decades, and were clear raving fans. I couldn’t initially see myself becoming one of them.

Writing in my journal late at night by the light of the Bell Tower in Upper Hamlet, Plum Village.

By the end, though, I could see the value. When I left, I felt more focused, more mindful, more at peace, and more compassionate than I had ever been in my life. I left with a heightened awareness of my own habits and patterns and, thus, the power to change those that didn’t suit me. I also left with a new mode of relating to myself, others around me, and to the world at large.

It’s been just over 3 weeks since I left Plum Village and I have, admittedly, found it very hard to maintain many of those states of mind in the outside world. I still get swept up by some of my old habits and patterns, and I’ve noticed that I’ve returned to familiar ways of escaping from deeper pains I’m reluctant to face. In particular, I think I’m still learning how to approach the occasionally inevitably lonely moments while traveling–close friends and truly intimate relationships can be hard to come by when the cast in your life seems to rotates constantly. This loneliness is sometimes underscored by the still convalescing wounds from my less-and-less recent breakup. While in Plum Village I had no choice but to approach these emotions with mindfulness. Lately, outside, it’s sometimes all I can do to notice that I’m acting out of a habitual desire to avoid dealing with this before continuing to do so anyway.

Though I struggle to apply everything I learned, I’m grateful for my time in Plum Village and hopeful that some things have taken deep root in my consciousness. I would definitely go back and, as I may have the opportunity to head back to Asia later this year, I’m considering paying visits to the affiliated monasteries in Hong Kong and Thailand.

What follows is my nightly journal from my two weeks in Plum Village. It contains impressions, emotions, insights and philosophical musings brought about by the unique environment there. The contents herein have been edited only for clarity. I wrote it for myself and parts of it are rather personal, but I share it so others may benefit from my experience at Plum Village.

As it’s rather long, here is a table of contents and an index of a few of the highlights:

Journal

Day 1 – Saturday, July 7, 2018

I arrived at Plum Village in the late afternoon yesterday. Today is my first full day here. It’s… very peaceful here. The hamlet itself is well-integrated with the beautifully forested countryside, and is often kissed by the sun and caressed by the warm summer’s breeze. The lighting here when the sun’s rays peak through the trees at dawn and dusk is other-wordly.

The altar in the meditation hall of Upper Hamlet, Plum Village.

With nature’s beauty all around and with the tranquil environment created by the community here, it’s hard not to find myself experiencing mindful moments and spontaneously enjoying the present. And yet, I am often restless here as well. The pace of everything here is calm and unhurried. Without realizing it, I often find that I’m walking faster than those around me. There’s also a bell they ring every so often as a reminder to return to the present. When they ring it, everyone goes silent and follows their breath for a few moments before returning to whatever they were doing. I’m often one of the last to notice the bell.

There are several meditation sessions of different varieties each day with the first starting before dawn at 6:00am. Despite years of meditation practice and experience with sessions as long as an hour, I’m often distracted and impatient. During breaks I tend to search for ways to occupy myself so I’ve been playing a lot of chess and Go with the other retreatants. As a practitioner of mindfulness, I know that occasionally getting distracted or impatient is natural and that I shouldn’t give myself a hard time about it. I’m also told by the veterans here that by the end of the week I’ll have adapted, but I have a hard time imagining myself slowing down so much at the moment.

I guess I’ve never had this much time every day dedicated to mindfulness before. We practice being mindful in almost everything we do, even walking, eating, and working. So much time with my thoughts makes it hard to hide from any difficult emotions I might be avoiding.

I’m making friends here and meeting interesting people, though it sometimes feels like my naturally extroverted nature is at odds with the intentions of the retreat. Today at lunch I made the mistake of carrying on a conversation while waiting in line for food. The dining hall is a “Noble Silence” area, which means we are meant to practice being present, silencing both our mouths and our minds.

I clearly have a lot to learn about mindfulness and I’m excited to learn over the course of the retreat! I wonder a little if one week is enough time to internalize what I learn here and if I’ll really be able to take mindfulness with me into the distracted and hurried world outside. I suppose only time will tell.

Day 2 – Sunday, July 8, 2018

A view of the lotus pond and bell tower in Lower Hamlet, Plum Village.

I’m quite pensive today. I suppose my overactive mind doesn’t take many breaks, even on a mindfulness retreat. After morning meditation and breakfast we walked down to the Lower Hamlet, which is, I think, typically where the single women stay. In some ways the Lower Hamlet is even nicer than the Upper Hamlet, where the men stay: there’s a large lotus pond in the center, and a peaceful grove of trees for walking meditation. We visited Lower Hamlet for a “Dharma Talk”1, which is perhaps the Plum Village version of a lecture or a sermon.

I’ve been drawing a lot of parallels between my experience here and my sparse childhood experiences at Christian and later Universal Unitarian churches. The community for practice here, the “sangha”, is much like the parish of a Christian church. The monks even seem to have a few songs which they lead us in before certain activities. Today, before the talk there was a performance of sorts with many of the monks and nuns chanting. I must admit that the comparison between Plum Village and a religious retreat makes me uncomfortable. I understand the powerful principles underlying the creation of a community of spiritual practitioners, and the way things are organized here makes sense, but I’m finding that I’m a bit resistant to some of the teachings here because of the format. I know that there is wisdom here, as there is in many of the world’s religions and spiritual practices, but I think the church-like format and strong devotion of many of the other retreatants has me on high alert for dogma. As is often my practice, I find myself questioning and examining everything, and I wonder if my habit of doing thi is diminishing my experience. There’s a common aphorism in Zen that goes something like “One cannot learn new things when the cup is already full.”

I wonder if my cup is too full. People often rave about their experience in Plum Village, and many of the retreatants are veterans who have been returning for years. While I certainly see the value, I’m not sure that I’m a raving fan yet, and I’m not sure what it would take for me to become one.

The poem inscribed on the large bell in Lower Hamlet, Plum Village.

On some level I think my personal philosophy is grappling with Buddhist precepts and finding a few places where there may be conflicts. In particular, Buddhism emphasizes slowing everything down and even just being OK with doing nothing for no reason. It also emphasizes the dual ideas of managing suffering while cultivating joy. While I’d agree that in our daily lives most of us are too hurried to mindfully enjoy the present, and that most of us struggle with the idea of having nothing to do and no stimulation, I believe in a balance in all things and have been wondering if the Buddhist work ethic as I’ve experienced and understood it so far is really the middle path. I also believe that some amount of stress and suffering is actually good and necessary, and that sometimes we should even seek it out (learning to face one’s fears, for example, usually has large personal benefit but could be argued to be a form of suffering). I have yet to see this conundrum fully addressed by Buddhism, though I’ve seen hints in the way my teacher talks about sitting for meditation (there is often pain, but one accepts and overcomes it and, in so doing, the pain bothers one less as they become practiced).

Anyway, today’s talk was about following the breath, finding joy/happiness in the mindfulness of doing so, and ultimately applying mindfulness to transform neutral and unpleasant experiences into pleasant ones. The core idea seemed to be that by applying awareness (rather than thought or avoidance) to these emotional states, we can take pleasure in the experience of acknowledging that we are bored (neutral) or sad (unpleasant). I think there’s truth in this though I sometimes feel skeptical of the somewhat mystic terminology of Buddhism. I suppose I’ll just have to try for myself sometime.

Day 3 – Monday, July 9, 2018

Fields of sunflowers litter the beautiful Bordeaux countryside.

I gave up my watch today. I was talking to one of the other retreatants and realized that my watch and sense of time were pulling me out of the present. Though I’m still somewhat skeptical of some of the Buddhist teachings, I’ve decided to do my best to embrace the spirit of the retreat. To this end, I’ve also given up chess and Go for the remainder of my time here as I was finding that my attachment to the games was distracting me–even in moments when I didn’t have down time I would look forward to the next time I’d get to play. I think perhaps I will make exceptions to this rule–the goal is to be present and mindful with myself, my surroundings, and my companions here. There are mindful interactions I can have with others over chess, but for now I will prefer conversation.

In the absence of other distractions, I mostly fill my time with walks and with talking to people. Many of the people here have followed similar paths or struggled with similar things and found refuge in mindfulness and Buddhism, so the conversations have been interesting and fruitful.

Today we visited New Hamlet via bus for another Dharma Talk. I decided to listen to the talk in French, and I’ll admit I was a bit tired–we sleep around 10pm and wake-up around 5:15am–so I only got the gist of the talk. Mostly it seemed to be about how Buddhists conceptualize the mind and human psychology. The analogy they’re fond of using is that the mind is like a garden with many seeds we can water to bring things into our consciousness. Focusing on the negative seeds causes negative thoughts and behaviors to grow, while focusing on the positive seeds does the opposite. Mindfulness, then, is tending a garden, and being judicious about which seeds to water and with what nourishment.

In the afternoon we learned about the 5 Mindfulness Trainings, which are a sort of code practitioners can commit themselves to. It includes things like mindful consumption and mindful interaction, and it implies that one make a commitment to vegetarianism and giving up substances like alcohol. Hearing these trainings felt a little like receiving the 10 commandments, and I could feel that comparison making me tense and less receptive. Though the trainings sounded rigid, the monks expressed two sentiments I really appreciated: 1) this is an ideal to work towards, and it’s not meant to be dogma–interpret them how you will while maintaining the spirit of mindfulness and 2) take what’s helpful to you and leave the rest with us. These sentiments really helped me to feel less like I’m on a religious retreat and being pressured to convert. We’re given the option to accept the trainings in a formal ceremony before we leave. I haven’t decided yet if I will.

The walking meditation path through the forest in Upper Hamlet, Plum Village.

I got into a bit of a debate with one of the other retreatants today which I felt illustrated one of my hesitations about the community here. Basically, I’ve observed that a lot of people here put a huge emphasis on “going with the flow.” This makes sense, as a lot of these people are recovering control freaks who were previously on high-stress career paths. They seem to have found in Buddhism an invitation to embrace the opposite extreme and now attempt to control nothing. The same pattern is observable about thought and intellectualizing–many of these people have experience stress, anxiety, or depression from being too much in their heads. They seem to now profess a total rejection of intellectualization and rational thought, preferring instead to feel everything out. My concern, and the kernel of the debate, is that these reactions are too strong and may lead one to a less-than-optimal path down the other extreme. In most things in life, I have found that balance is ideal because there are advantages and disadvantages to nearly every way of thinking and every way of being. In the cases here, following the other extreme does involve much less stress, which makes it potentially falsely attractive, but I think it may also lead to a state of under control, where one does not exert influence on things in life they actually can and should control (it’s knowing which is which that’s the real challenge, in my opinion). I can’t claim to know what the right balance is, but I have an intuition that the opposite extreme is not it.

On my way to write this entry, I was invited by one of the monks to join him for some late evening tea. Though it was getting late and I was eager to write down my thoughts for the day, I felt it would be wrong to decline. We drank tea by a lake, and he graciously offered to help untangle some of my internal knots. I shared with him some of the difficult emotions I’ve experienced in separating with my Vietnamese ex-girlfriend. He is, himself, Vietnamese, so I felt a little bit of a language barrier, but was appreciative of a compassionate ear. His advice itself confused me somewhat, however. He seemed to make a lot of assumptions about my ex- since she was Vietnamese, and he seemed to make a lot of assumptions about what and how I felt about her and about the depth and nature of our relationship. It struck me at points as a bit strangely ironic to be receiving advice on such matters from a man who became a monk at 17 and who likely had little actual experience in such matters, but I enjoyed the tea and the company and did my best to keep an open mind. This monk has suggested I stay in Plum Village for another week or two, and I’ve learned from  him that it may be possible to borrow a tent. There are a few other hurdles to staying longer, but I’m considering it. He claims that I should take more time to heal, not just from my ex-, but also from suffering I have from my parents. He thinks that in the outside world I’ll distract myself and run away from my suffering rather than sit with and understand it. I’m not sure, but he may be right–I certainly think I felt better about the break-up leading up to Plum Village because I was so busy I didn’t really have bandwidth to process my emotions.

I’m not sure what I’ll find if I stay another week, but regardless of my continued skepticism, I do know that I feel more deeply calm, relaxed, and at peace here than I have for a very long time.

Day 4 – Tuesday, July 10, 2018

The smaller activity bell in Lower Hamlet, Plum Village.

I have decided to spend another week here if I can make it work logistically. All day I’ve been playing with the question of whether or not to stay. For most people, I think Plum Village represents a place of refuge where they can escape from the stress in their daily lives and connect with the mind space to recognize and really deal with their deeper internal fears and issues (or, as Buddhists would say, their suffering). I’ve been struggling a bit to understand why my experience so far hasn’t matched up with others’, but now I think I see that it may be because I have made dealing with fears and issues a major focal point of my life.

The argument for staying in Plum Village is usually that doing so will help one to better understand themselves and their suffering so they can deal with them here rather than run away from them through distractions and consumption in the outside world. For me, though, I’ve been wondering if Plum Village is actually my way of running away from my problems: I deal with my fears and my problems every day, though I’m admittedly not always as mindful as I could be about how I go about it. Here in Plum Village, I am safe and can give myself a pass to not deal with the fears involved in walking my own path or the suffering involved in my close relationships. Though I recognize that staying here has value for most people living more traditional lifestyles, I have been trying to decide if I would get more value here or out there. Also, particularly because of some of my resistance, I’ve wondered if I should go.

What changed my mind today was a moving experience at the end of a talk today about “Beginning Anew.” “Beginning Anew” is a practice they have here for renewing, repairing, and strengthening relationships. It involves recognizing that relationships are dynamic, and cannot be expected to remain the same over time. It also involves recognizing that every fulfilling relationship has good moments (flowers) and challenges (compost), and that both are equally important in maintaining a strong relationship. Their process here has four parts: 1) flower watering, in which one recognizes, affirms, and appreciates what is beautiful and special about the other person, 2) expressing regret, in which one takes ownership of the things they wish they did better so the other person might suffer less, 3) expressing suffering, in which one describes how they suffer as a result of the other person’s actions, without blaming or any vindictive or harmful intent in order to simply help the other person understand you better and 4) asking for support, in which one asks the other for specific help to reduce one’s suffering.

All of this makes great theory, but what really brought it home was the monk inviting a couple to volunteer to actually go through the steps in front of all of us. At first, nobody volunteered. After many minutes, there was a woman who seemed interested, but her husband was visibly reluctant. She eventually got him on stage with the promise that perhaps they would just go through the affirmations.

Her affirmations were so heartfelt and tender that they brought her husband to tears. For some reason, I also couldn’t help but cry watching this–perhaps because the expression of love was so beautiful, and perhaps because it reminded me of something I had recently hoped for and lost in my ex-. She didn’t stop there, though. She ended up going through the entire process and when she was finished her husband, reminded of her love for him and of his love for her, leaned over and kissed her. Unexpectedly, he then got very into it and similarly walked through the process. We could actually feel and see their love for each other, and feel and see that their relationship had tangibly been healed by the exercise. It was a very moving and very human experience, and watching it feels as if it has healed something in me as well.

In the wake of that experience, I’ve come to the insight that though I will not necessarily agree with every teaching here, this is, indeed, a very special and very healing place. I don’t entirely understand how or why yet, but perhaps I don’t need to. There is much that I can learn and practice here, if I allow myself to, and for all I know I may never get another chance to come back. Tomorrow I will ask at the registration office if I can stay another week and I will take a friend up on his offer to borrow his unused tent.

Day 5 – Wednesday, July 11, 2018

The monks and nuns put on a small concert for us near Song Ha Temple, Upper Hamlet, Plum Village.

Yesterday was lazy day which meant that there were next to no official activities and I had time to sleep in. Waking up for 6am morning meditation after such a day was a bit brutal. It was a fairly uneventful day, but I want to write about a few philosophical insights I’ve had. A few of these came up during a Q&A session with the monks and nuns during which I tried to phrase a few questions I had been thinking about only to find that I already had the answers, or at least that I had made progress since the last time I thought about them.

The first question is whether or not happiness equates to meaning in life. I ask this question because it’s almost cliché to look beneath surface-level desires (e.g. money, fame, power, etc.) and state that what people who want these things really want is to be happy and that they pursue these things because they believe having these things will make them happy. Buddhism teaches that the conditions for happiness are always present, and that a form of happiness is readily accessible through mindfulness. Empirically and experientially, this is true for me: being mindful helps to generate a wondrous sense of appreciation, gratitude, and connectedness, creating a joy that could be most likened to the joy children experience as they discover the incredible nature of even simple things in the world for the first time.

Happiness–become and staying happy–receives a lot of attention in the teachings at Plum Village, but I am increasingly convinced that happiness is, itself, another red herring in understanding what truly motivates and inspires people. I’m beginning to think that what we truly seek from life is not happiness, but meaning. Though they are related, they are not the same thing. I think that the existence of meaning generates happiness, and that being happy is meaningful and makes it easier for us to find meaning in our situations and surroundings. However, meaning does not necessarily require the presence of happiness: we often find meaning when we suffer, and we sometimes find meaning in relationships that at times give us more frustration than joy (e.g. family). If what we really seek is meaning and meaning does not equate to happiness, then the idea that our goal in life is to pursue happiness is an oversimplification. What we should pursue instead is meaning, which will commonly be found on the road to happiness, but which can be found through other paths as well (e.g. converting to a religion and accepting a dogmatic definition of meaning; suffering but suffering well also often leads to meaning).

The second insight is related: it’s that our goal in life cannot and should not be to eliminate suffering. I often hear people who have had some exposure to Eastern philosophies express an aspiration to “be liberated,” as if liberation implies an end to all of their pain and suffering for all of time. I’m learning, however, that happiness cannot exist without suffering anymore than light can exist without shadow. Furthermore, the balance and interplay of suffering and happiness is an important source of meaning. I think it’s possible, therefore, that the concept of enlightenment has less to do with not suffering and more to do with learning the perspectives and practices to suffer well–finding meaning in our suffering and therefore naturally reducing the suffering.

These ideas need more exploration and refinement, but if I’m right than I think my approach to life does change slightly to optimize for meaning in whatever forms I can find or create it rather than just optimizing for happiness. I wonder also what implications these ideas have for how we should structure our societies and define our societal goals as well: if the aim isn’t to eliminate suffering, is it still to lessen it as much as we can? Is there an amount of suffering that is actually good to have present? Should we even create suffering to achieve that if necessary?

In other news, I’ve confirmed that I can stay here another week. There’s a dorm bed available in Sơn Ha for 350€/week and, though pricey, I think I’m going to take it. I may see if I can use my tech skills to volunteer and receive a free or reduced rate in exchange.

I also had a few really interesting conversations today: one about politics and societal values (including a discussion of direct democracy, its merits and its flaws), and one about “the 7 chakras” and theories for personal philosophy and the progression of consciousness. A more in-depth recounting of those conversations will have to wait until it’s not super late at night before a 6am meditation, but suffice to say I have found very interesting topics on which to connect very deeply with some of the people here. I can’t help but feel that I’m making some good friends for life here, and this also motivates me to stay longer.

As a last note: my Dharma sharing family2 facilitator, a very wise, joyous, and entertaining Thay3 Phap Dung, says that he sees something different in me since I’ve been here and that he’s glad I’m staying longer. Something in my eyes, he says. I think I feel it, too: here I am very deeply at peace and experience a very deep joy which I think reflects in my face. The challenge when I leave will be taking that with me and maintaining it in the world outside.

Day 6 – Thursday, July 12, 2018

A collection of Buddha statues in Lower Hamlet, Plum Village.

Today was the last day of the first week of the retreat. The day started with kind of a weird ritualistic ceremony. Many people here opted to receive the transmission of the 5 Mindfulness Trainings (or, at least some of the 5). Rather than sitting meditation, we had the ceremony at 6:00am, which involved some chanting, reading the mindfulness trainings, bowing to the altar in the meditation hall, and ultimately receiving a certificate including the entire text of the 5 Mindfulness Trainings (to be reviewed and contemplated on a regular basis).

I have not elected to receive the 5 Mindfulness Trainings myself, though doing so is more a commitment to one’s self than anything. I’m still deciding how much of the text I agree with. Since I’m staying another week, I figure I have more time to contemplate the decision.

I continue to struggle a bit with the more ritualistic side of the tradition here. I suppose in part, this is why I stay so intellectually on guard: the difference between a community and a cult can be as small as the absence of independent rational thought and the presence of cyanide in the Koolaid… I am, however, learning not to let this get too much in the way of my absorbing useful insights from the rest of my surroundings.

I had some harder moments today. In stark contrast to the feelings of joy and peace I’ve had throughout the week, today I often felt tense and was visited by heavier feelings of stress, anxiety, or fear. It was nothing I haven’t learned to be familiar with, but it was a bit surprising nonetheless. I’d attribute these feelings to two sources. First, I had to turn on my phone and refill my SIM card. That was, itself, rather frustrating, and reconnecting to the outside world had a stronger effect on my ability to stay present and mindful than I expected. Suddenly, with messages to send, replies to receive, and potentially work to do, my mind became very occupied and I caught myself often thinking ahead to something I might need to do later. I think this all contributed to a loose sense of stress, heightened by the fact that it feels like such a long time since I last experienced stress.

At first, the idea of having to stay in contact with the outside world or working while here bummed me out, but I’ve come to realize that it’s a wonderful opportunity to begin to slowly integrate my mindfulness practice into my normal life while still keeping a foot in the safety and energy of Plum Village. My first week here was quite relaxing and I learned a lot about the joy of slowing life down. These conditions–no phone, no watch, no deadlines–however, were not terribly similar to my actual life. To really learn to be mindful outside of Plum Village, I will need to learn to change my relationship with technology and with work. I’m quite excited now for the challenge.

The second source of tension was a brief feeling of disconnectedness from some of my friends here. I had a pretty interesting philosophical conversation with a friend, but left feeling like I had perhaps not been mindful and may have pushed too hard. I really enjoy talking about some of these questions, but I think I have strong opinions and an intensity in asking the questions that can sometimes wear people out.

The topic of the conversation also left me feeling a bit down. As I alluded to yesterday, it seems as if happiness and meaning don’t exist without suffering. Yet, the paradox is that we often derive meaning from lessening the suffering of others. In an ideal world would we not, therefore, work to eliminate all the suffering we could? Is there any meaning in a world without suffering? If not… should we involve ourselves in the lessening of suffering at all or should we leave it be? Somehow it doesn’t feel right for there not to be any meaning to anything, nor does it feel right to not aim to spread joy/happiness while lessening suffering, so the implications of this paradox deflated me a bit. I’m still playing with it, but I think the way out of the paradox involves recognizing that even if our intent is to lessen suffering as much as possible, it’s likely humanly impossible to completely eliminate suffering–that would involve removing emotions, something that feels very integral to what it even means to be human. There seem to be two forms of suffering: the original pain that kicks up emotions, and the additional pain we kick up by getting overly involved in these emotions in unskillful ways. With practice, we can learn to transform the second type of pain into something positive (e.g. when we feel stressed we can either be stressed that we’re stressed or we can develop a healthy relationship with stress and learn that some amount of stress helps us to grow and evolve).

I think it’s unlikely that we can ever eliminate the first type of suffering without removing our emotions–and that’s OK because joy and happiness can often be found in the absence of that pain, but can also be found in the practice of making that pain an ally when it is present. So perhaps our goal as a race and an important way in which we find meaning is in helping others learn to suffer well. If we did this perfectly it would not mean the end of all pain, but it would mean the transformation of all negative affectations of suffering. Such a world would, indeed, be beautiful.

An incredible countryside sunset seen from a church on a hill near Upper Hamlet, Plum Village.

I had two really beautiful high points today despite the introduction of stress. The first was during dinner when I looked around at the faces of everyone in my Dharma sharing family and realized that I really, honestly, wanted to help them all experience joy and suffer less and that I knew they all wanted the same for me. This is an important part of what they refer to as “True Love” here (only one part of what I personally consider important in romantic love). The realization that I feel a sense of love for all these people and from all these people was very moving and powerful. I imagine for some it’s also incredibly healing–it may be the first time in their lives they’ve experienced such a love.

The second was after dinner during a special tea meditation we had to close out the week. My small family hiked a ways to a church on a hill outside of the monastery. There we shared a delicious oolong tea, some inspired music from the talented musicians in our family, each other’s presence, and the beautiful orange light of twilight as the sun sinks over the hills and valleys of rural France. All of it came together to create what felt like a beautifully perfect moment full of joy and full of presence. I kid you not, it was nearly enough to move me to tears. It’s hard for me to describe why, but there’s so much meaning to a joyful moment like that shared with people I care about. I believe it may even have been one of the most beautiful moments in my life so far.

Day 7 – Friday, July 13, 2018

A small bamboo forest in Lower Hamlet, Plum Village.

I’ll try to keep this one short, as I’m trading sleep for time to write these sometimes and I did not sleep long last night.

It’s arrival/departure day for the second week of the retreat so there wasn’t much scheduled programming for the morning, but I chose to rise at 5:45am and meditate on my own despite having gone to bed past 1:00am.

Today was a difficult day, perhaps for a number of reasons. Not getting enough sleep didn’t help, but I also said goodbye to a number of departing friends today. I’m not terribly good at goodbyes. It’s been interesting, though in some ways alarming, watching the energy of Plum Village as one wave of retreatants leaves and another arrives. When I got here a week ago (feels like a lifetime ago) someone mentioned the hurried/excited/anticipatory energy of new arrivals and how it seems to change over the course of the week. Now that I’m on the other side I understand better. I think I’ve found this renewed sense of rush from outside a bit stressing and my lack of good sleep didn’t afford me the fortitude to normalize. It’s incredible how big a difference a good night’s rest can make.

I have found, however, that I seem to need less sleep here in general. On average I think I sleep 7 hours or less, yet I’ve often felt more energized here than I have in a long time outside.

I’ve had to stay in touch with the outside a bit as well today, and I found I had unmindful moments where I’d pull out my phone for no terribly good reason. I’m starting to get in the habit of leaving it in Airplane mode until I really need it, and am learning to check it a few times a day without feeling anxious to check it. Nevertheless, I’m sure this also had something to do with my darker moods today.

For my second week in Plum Village, I debated switching myself to a French Dharma sharing family so that I’d be forced to speak and listen in French. At the last moment, however, I decided to return to my original English Dharma sharing family because there are many younger retreatants there, I’ve gotten to know some of them quite well, and I think I’ll get more out of the group activities in English. I’m trying to make a commitment to engage more of the many French retreatants in French–I already get to speak more French here than I did in Bordeaux–and not give up and switch to English when I have trouble. I actually had a nice conversation with a French web developer for about 45 minutes before writing this :).

I honestly don’t know exactly what to expect from myself during this second week here. Will it be more of the same, or will I experience something totally different? I’m trying not to get too attached to an idea of it. I do, however, want to set the intention of using this time to learn to apply mindfulness to technology and my work and potentially to engage more with the suffering I know I still carry from my parents. I can’t expect too much, but it would mean a lot to me to be able to meaningfully mend my familial relationships. Up until now, I’ve often found I can’t muster enough compassion to view my parents’ transgressions in a truly forgiving and loving light, but perhaps I can make a breakthrough with support from the nurturing emotional environment here.

Day 8 – Saturday, July 14, 2018

I cried twice today. Once while I sat by the large bell and again during Dharma sharing when I recounted my personal insights.

Bell tower, Upper Hamlet, Plum Village

The bell tower where I spent most of my down time at the Upper Hamlet, Plum Village.

I discovered today that I have been running away from much of my suffering, and I’m really glad I’m staying an extra week. This morning I woke up after a dream about a typical disagreement with my mother, which left me feeling tense all morning. I missed morning meditation because I woke up late, but I made it to the Upper Hamlet for the rest of my morning routine. Over tea, I had a long conversation with Hamish where he shared that Thay Phap Dung had given him an assignment to write a letter of gratitude to his parents about all of the great attributes they have that he has inherited from them. Of course, we ended up talking a lot about our parents and difficulties with them. Not long after our conversation I was sitting alone by the large bell with some tea and my Kindle as I often do. I had just resumed reading Siddhartha by Herman Hesse when I realized my pain was starting to surface. I closed my eyes and mindfully followed my breath and just let it come, and before I knew it I was crying. In these tearful moments, I had a few insights: that while I’ve been facing my fears and learning to deal with other forms of suffering, I’ve been running away from the suffering I have inherited from my parents and the suffering their suffering has caused me; that they could never have taught me to deal with my suffering since they have never known how to deal with their own suffering; that I’ve tried and failed many times to mend my relationship with my parents, and for a long time have sort of given up and decided to just keep my distance instead; that I’m incredibly grateful that my ex- helped me to gravitate toward Buddhism and Thich Nhat Hanh, grateful that she taught me to recognize my parents’ suffering with compassion, grateful that her last great gift to me was the knowledge that I have the capacity to forgive even when others have made me suffer greatly, and grateful for the knowledge that I have the capacity to transform my suffering and the suffering of others; that the way our relationship ended taught me about the same love, compassion, and forgiveness I must now learn to apply to my parents; that through my compassion I still love my ex very much, though I have learned that love and attachment aren’t the same thing so I believe I can continue to feel this way for her without desiring a romantic relationship with her or avoiding one with someone else someday; and that I must learn to listen with more compassion and master the art of suffering well.

I shared all of this during Dharma sharing. It was intense and cathartic. I wonder if it was a bit much since some people were attending their very first sharing session ever, but oh well.

I’m still wearing two hair ties my ex- had put around my wrist for me to remember her by. I haven’t felt completely ready to take them off yet, though sometimes noticing them has triggered a feeling of missing her or of residual anger about how things played out. Now I think that I’ll continue to wear them and instead use them as a frequent reminder of my capacity to love compassionately and to forgive, and of my gratitude in discovering that capacity.

Tomorrow I’ll start trying to bring my parents into my meditation, and perhaps do some writing about and for them. I’m nervous about facing my suffering, but I think I have the tools I need this time.

The Happy Farm, where volunteers help to grow food to support Plum Village.

On a different note, I visited the Happy Farm, where they grow many of their own vegetables, today. I helped them harvest beans and learned that farming is a great method for overcoming my fear of critters–they hide pretty much everywhere on the farm. While there I had some interesting conversations which once again got me thinking about the relationship between happiness and meaning. I’ve had a couple new key insights to explore on this topic: 1) happiness is personal and has to do with lessening suffering and cultivating joy in one’s self while meaning is usually realized in relation to others and has to do with lessening suffering and cultivating joy in others–the more compassion we feel for someone else, the more potential for meaning in the relationship; 2) most people seek a sense of both meaning and happiness ; we tend to feel something is missing without one or the other (this was the missing link before when I wrote about authenticity and integrity); 3) happiness is, in many ways, a prerequisite for most meaning, as we can’t help people feel joy if we don’t have it ourselves, and we can’t as effectively lessen suffering in others if our own burden is too heavy; 4) meaning often generates some happiness, but happiness by this definition cannot be meaningful on its own (e.g. I’m happy, but I long for someone to share it with); 5) authenticity perhaps maximizes both happiness and meaning; 6) there is, perhaps, a separate concept from happiness and meaning which is purpose; purpose and meaning may fulfill overlapping roles, but I need to think about this more.

Anyway, that’s enough musing for now–I need to sleep.

Day 9 – Sunday, July 15, 2018

An early morning shot of the meditation hall in Upper Hamlet, Plum Village.

The weather is changing a bit here. Occasionally, dark clouds crowd the sky and threaten to litter the hamlet with rain, though it has not truly rained during the day yet.

We spent the day in Lower Hamlet. I got into a small argument with someone new in my Dharma sharing family. A few of us were talking and I was amused to hear the newcomers expressing the same discomfort as I did with certain aspects of Plum Village (e.g. the singing). One even compared it to a cult-like experience as I did a number of days ago.

Someone mentioned that there were a few things they completely disagreed with during today’s Dharma Talk. When pressed, he said that the meaning he got from some of the talk was “Just breath and your problems will go away.” While I could see how he might interpret things that way, I jumped in very quickly and very forcefully to correct him because I knew that his statement was a gross oversimplification of the philosophy here. They don’t teach that breathing will make our problems disappear–they believe mindfulness and the breath can be used as invaluable tools to become comfortable being with and experiencing our more uncomfortable emotions rather than running from them or finding ways to distract ourselves from them. They teach that in learning to do this well we learn to deal with our pain rather than hide from it and that this helps us solve our problems and become happier.

My heart was in a good place–I didn’t want him to reject his experience here or the wisdom offered here over a disagreement with an incorrect interpretation of the teachings. However, I could feel that I had made him feel judged, lectured to, and unwelcome. I wish I had listened compassionately instead and perhaps have picked a more tactful way of making my point. I have a lot to learn about compassionate listening4–my intellectual instinct is to correct and advise when often someone just needs to feel heard. Learning to do this well would have helped me in my relationship with my ex and will certainly help me make peace with my parents. I ultimately apologized to the person I corrected–even though I know I was factually correct, I also know that I was emotionally wrong to do what I did.

Today I’ve felt better than the last few days. I’m still very aware of my suffering near the surface, but for the most part I’m experiencing joy and suffering simultaneously and it’s a strangely beautiful feeling.

The community celebrates in the large meditation hall as France wins the World Cup.

It was also the World Cup final today, and we turned the large meditation hall into a screening area. Apparently Thay5 didn’t used to allow this but since many of the monks and nuns would watch secretly he decided to just bring everyone together to watch it. We were advised to notice how we and the people around us were feeling, and enjoy the rare outbursts of excitement the monks and nuns would show whenever a goal was scored. I don’t normally watch football, but a friend explained some more of the strategy to me and it ended up being an exciting match. I feel fortunate to have watched France play in and win the World Cup while at Plum Village in France. What are the odds??

No progress today with respect to my parents, but I’ve loosely committed myself to spending my lazy day in relative solitude just approaching the suffering and trying to work through how I feel. No reading or other distractions (even people!!) allowed unless someone invites me to share some time with them.

Day 10 – Monday, July 16, 2018

A view of the bell tower in New Hamlet, Plum Village.

This morning I woke up to distant lightning. I nearly decided to go back to sleep rather than hike 10 minutes to the meditation hall in the rain, but when I went outside it was clear the storm was still a ways off. Almost immediately after I sat down in the meditation hall, however, it started totally pouring. It was actually quite a magical experience sitting and meditating to the rhythm of the drumming rain. I always hated the rain growing up, but I’m trying to learn to appreciate it–after all, they say life is about learning to dance in the rain.

After breakfast I finished reading Siddhartha by Herman Hesse. It was a pretty profound read–I read it once in high school, but I don’t think I got nearly as much out of it. Finishing the book has me contemplating a lot about the tension between acceptance and action. I think the closest thing Siddhartha comes to attempting to explain the insight of enlightenment is the realization that time is a human construct, that everything that was will always be and everything that will be always was, and that the world is perfect in every moment despite present suffering. In this timeless sense, we become one with pretty much everything–what comprises my body may have existed in many forms: earth, animals, insects, elements, etc. and so I owe gratitude and reverence to all things. Everything on Earth is connected in this way by our complex ecosystem and the cycle of life.

What I’m struggling with, though, is that if truly loving the world and fully realizing this insight means accepting the perfection of its imperfection and recognizing my own and all other suffering as a beautiful part of the broader whole, then what motivation is left to us to change or improve the world or ourselves? In this context, if imperfection and suffering are parts of the genius of life, what does it even mean to improve the world? Thus far, I’m not totally sure what Buddhism has to say to this contradiction, and I keep coming back to it in one form or another. I hope to learn more about the Buddhist perspective here before I leave.

We went to New Hamlet today for another Dharma Talk. I’m still finding that this format isn’t for me–I never have been a fan of lectures. I’m realizing I gain more wisdom and insight reading about these concepts than by having a monk try to explain them. Every teacher has their own style, of course, but thus far I’ve felt that the way they’ve explained topics is logically brittle, trying to fall back on hearsay science at some points, and failing to skillfully back up their claims with good examples. I maintain that this is a failing of the teachers, not of the teachings, however. I’m grateful that these talks are not my first introduction to Buddhism–if they had been I might have been turned off to it. I wonder if my experience would be different if Thich Nhat Hanh still gave these talks himself–he does a reasonably good job explaining in his many books.

It’s now. A clock and watches from an exhibit about Thich Nhat Hanh in New Hamlet, Plum Village.

After the Dharma Talk, Thay Phap Dung offered to share an orange with me. I had been meaning to have a conversation with him for a few days and was very grateful for the opportunity to hang out with him. We talked mostly about our fathers and he offered me some guidance in navigating my emotions toward my parents. Much of what he said was both relatable and insightful for me, but one thing that really stuck with me was the concept of the “inner” parent.

Our parents and our ancestors are a part of who we are, both through their genes, and through the behaviors and suffering they have purposefully or inadvertently passed on to their children and their children’s children. In this sense, my father is within me as well. When I feel animosity toward my father I can’t help but also feel animosity towards parts of myself. Thus, to hate my parents is to hate myself and vice-versa. To love myself is also, in a way, to love my parents, and vice-versa. I can never truly love myself until I also learn to love my parents, and it’s difficult to truly love someone else without loving myself first. I’m learning to start small with my appreciation of my parents’ traits, and that I need to accept their love in whatever forms they can give it, even those forms are imperfect or cause me suffering sometimes. I’m also realizing that my taking care of my entrepreneurial fears (very similar to my father’s) and learning to deal with my wrong perceptions and difficult emotions (very similar to my mother’s) is not, in fact, a rejection of them or a trial to prove that I am better than them, but rather in a way is a very deep form of love: learning to transform the suffering passed to me by my parents so that I can help them both to heal and to suffer less. In this way all of the great trials of my life right now become connected…

The poem inscribed on the large bell in New Hamlet, Plum Village.

After our chat, Thay Phap Dung and I joined walking meditation and he asked me if I minded holding hands. I found that I didn’t, that I enjoyed the connection and his presence, that I could feel his love and compassion through his hand. It was a joyful walk, and we were soon joined by one of his many child friends. Thay Phap Dung never ceases to amaze me. He is at once so wise and so childlike, taking off running through the fields to play with a child. He is obviously wordly (and is thus more credible) but so joyful and so free. In his work as a monk I can see that he has touched many lives, including my own. I admire and respect him greatly.

Today after dinner was lazy evening, meaning there were no activities scheduled. The atmosphere of the hamlet changed greatly with many people singing and drumming and being merry in the dining hall. Some people even commented that it felt more like a music festival than Plum Village. For my part, I was challenged to a game of chess. I was also asked by a little girl and her mother if I might teach her how to play. I found that I enjoyed teaching her very much–she was clever and grasped the concepts quickly. I don’t want to stroke my own ego, but I also realized just how consciously competent I am at teaching. I’m able to connect to students on an emotional level, keep them entertained and engaged while presenting new material, can construct good exercises to test their understanding, and have the patience to allow them to think on their own and make mistakes. I think I also have a deep empathy for students and am able to explain things in a clear and relatable way at the right pace while also having good insight into why a student misunderstood something when they get stuck. I noticed the other adults lacked many of these traits–were either impatient or unclear and unengaging. I wonder, as I have once wondered before, if teaching may be one of my gifts. A young French boy has also asked me to teach him and I intend to teach him in French tomorrow.

Day 11 – Tuesday, July 17, 2018

The activity bell in the Upper Hamlet, Plum Village.

Another lazy day. I woke up too late to make it to breakfast. My plan originally was to read through No Mud, No Lotus, Anger, and Reconciliation by Thich Nhat Hanh and then do some writing about my parents, but instead I kept finding myself in conversations with people. It was good, though, one conversation was with a Vietnamese monk who approached me while I was reading near the bell tower, another was with an aspirant in my Dharma sharing family who I ran into on my way out to go running, and two others were with friends who looked like they were struggling so I wanted to lend my ear.

The chat with the Vietnamese monk was interesting. It’s often hard to understand what the Vietnamese monks are saying because their accents are strong and their English isn’t perfect. At first, I thought he was trying to give me some unsolicited advice about balance and types of pleasure, but I slowly realized that he and I were having a philosophical dialog. He brought up the point that perhaps some ego is good or even necessary for many things which has me examining whether or not my strong and total rejection of ego in recent years is an overreaction–perhaps a little bit of ego to give us drive isn’t a bad thing? This isn’t exactly a Buddhist idea, however, so I was surprised to hear it suggested by a monk. We also talked about human “illusions” like the beliefs we can hold about society and purpose. He argued that illusion is sometimes necessary to bring people together (e.g. movements like communism). I argued that truth is always preferable to illusion and that truth, or an honest quest for it, can bring people together in more constructive ways as it seems to have in Plum Village.

Beyond this, many of my other conversations today gave me good opportunities to practice compassionate listening. I had another conversation with the person I had corrected and apologized to a few days ago, and I realized how uncomfortably like me he must sound. Despite what I know to be intent to the contrary, he comes off as a bit arrogant and closed-minded. He also self-identifies as an “extremely self-aware” person and I realized that often people who profess to be self-aware (myself included), may in fact have huge blind spots despite–or perhaps because of–this belief. Regardless, I chose not to correct him or offer my own opinion to compare to his–I could see that doing so would likely not have resulted in a terribly constructive conversation. I must reflect on this encounter and learn to change my own often arrogantly combative communication style.

Before returning to my lodging I taught that young French boy to play chess. It was late and I wanted to come home to sleep, but I felt I had promised him and I noticed him waiting for me at the tea house. My French has certainly improved–I succeeded in teaching him all the rules of chess without any English. There is a long way to go still, but having had so many French conversations here in Plum Village I have reached the point where I can hold a reasonable conversation, though I sometimes need things repeated or slowed down and sometimes have to ask how to say a word in French provided its meaning (which I can often describe in French).

Day 12 – Wednesday, July 18, 2018

The poem inscribed on the large bell in Upper Hamlet, Plum Village.

Today was a strange day. I decided to skip morning meditation when my alarm went off at 5:30am. I woke instead at 8:30am missing breakfast and a chance to pack a lunch as well. I was surprisingly exhausted–I think a few of my shorter nights have caught up to me.

I’ve been in a weird mood. At the same time I think I’m starting to feel ready to leave but I’m also a bit nervous about returning to the stressors and distractions outside. I’ve found much here in Plum Village–peace, joy, love, compassion, self-knowledge, wisdom–and I fear losing all that I’ve gained as soon as I leave. At the same time, I’m excited to try and perhaps a bit anxious to start applying what I’ve learned to my normal life. I think perhaps a third week would have been too much for me–I’m starting to get used to the pattern here so some of it is losing its novelty and magic. Perhaps at some point I’ll try 3 weeks at a different monastery (Asia?) regardless just to be with those new impatient emotions.

There was a Q&A today and I got to ask my question about the conflict between truly loving and accepting something (or someone) and the desire to change it. In this case, I’m particularly interested in how we can truly love and accept the world while reconciling that with the desires we often have to change or improve it. It seems to me that a true love and acceptance implies no need to change something–if we need it to be different we’ve failed to accept it by definition. I’ve been wondering what the Buddha would have said about this, but the answer I got from a young nun simply challenged my definition of love/acceptance and state that when we accept something, action is a natural consequence. I’m not really convinced by her argument, but I will reflect on the answer she gave me nonetheless. She also recommended that I read True Love by Sister Chan Kong.

In other news, I’ve decided to accept the transmission of all 5 of the 5 Mindfulness Trainings. The ceremony is early tomorrow morning. I’m not yet convinced I agree with all of Buddhism or even all of the text in the mindfulness trainings, but I acknowledge that it seems to have gotten some things right and I see my taking the trainings as a commitment to continue to reflect on Plum Village ideals and to at least be mindful of what I say, do, and consume.

We also had tea meditation today which was by far my week’s highlight last week. I don’t think quite the same energy was there today–it’s hard to top that evening of music, joy, good company, and sunsets–but I’m grateful to have shared the experience with wonderful people nonetheless. This time I shared my gratitude with the family and also recited one of the beautiful poems written on the sides of the bells in the bell towers. This was a bit embarrassing, however, as they’re all in French and my pronunciation needs work :P.

Day 13 – Thursday, July 19, 2018

Today was my last real day in Plum Village–I depart tomorrow after lunch. The close of my stay here inevitably comes with mixed feelings. I’m nervous about whether or not I will succeed in my endeavor to bring my learnings here back through the shroud to the real world. I’m sad to say so many goodbyes. I’m confused by how deep yet how shallow my relationships here are–many of these people have touched my life and I feel that I have touched theirs, and yet I’m truly not convinced I’ll ever see any of them again, or that I’ll succeed in meaningfully keeping in touch. I’m grateful for everything I learned, for joyous moments with friends, for renewed courage to face my challenges with integrity. I’m ever restless despite learning here to slow down and really enjoy the moment.

Group shot of the “Right Action” Dharma sharing family after the ceremony.

In the morning I participated in the ceremony to receive the transmission of all 5 Mindfulness Trainings. At the end of the ceremony I was given a certificate and the “Dharma Name” “Graceful Action of the Heart.” I can’t help but feel funny about how much like a baptism this felt, but I find myself oddly pleased with this name. I very much hope that my actions and my character will live up to it.

Aside from the ceremony, I skipped most of the day’s events, including the Dharma Talk. Instead, I opted to do some writing. I wrote a letter to my ex to whom I owe some gratitude for finding myself in Plum Village at all. I also started to write some things about my parents. There’s much to explore there and I am far from finished, but I think I have a good mental framework to follow.

I’m starting with gratitude. First I’m acknowledging all the things about myself that I appreciate, and then drawing a line between each of these and a similar attribute in my parents or ancestors so that I can express my gratitude to them for my gifts and see that they have them, too. After, I will acknowledge other things I admire about my parents or ancestors which I don’t find in myself but nevertheless appreciate. By starting with gratitude, I ground myself in the knowledge that my parents and ancestors have many wonderful strengths.

Next I’ll approach compassion. I want to acknowledge all the ways that my parents and ancestors suffer so that I can begin to feel understanding, love, and forgiveness for how their suffering has manifested. I will do this generally first, then zero in on how I specifically have caused my parents or grandparents to suffer. I will express my regret that I have caused this suffering. Then I’ll approach my own suffering and try, without blaming, to give voice to how my parents’ or ancestors’ actions or suffering have hurt me. It is important that I do this so that they can understand and have compassion and awareness as well.

Last, I’ll ask for support via specific actions that might help me suffer less and I’ll offer similar support the other way. It’s above all important that all of this come from a place of deep love and acceptance. I must not do it because I hope it will somehow change my parents or my relationship with them–I must truly do it for no other reason than that it’s the loving thing to do to acknowledge their strengths, express my gratitude, and take responsibility for the pain I have caused. This will all take time to get right.

The squad after our successful transformation into mud monsters and trolls in the Upper Hamlet lake.

In the afternoon, I went swimming in the lake with a few friends. We enjoyed fooling around and caking mud on ourselves in the hopes that (maybe) the mud would be good for our skin. I don’t enjoy swimming in murky water, but I must admit that it was quite a bit of fun and that I was glad to be peer pressured into it.

Not long after I got back from swimming, we had our last dinner in our Dharma sharing families. It’s sad to have to say goodbye, but I’m very much glad that I stayed in this family a second week rather than attempting a switch to a French family (which would have been a complete disaster). Someone passed a contact sheet around, so maybe I’ll get to stay in touch. I forgot to take the time to personally thank our facilitator, Thay Phap Dung. He’s been a really integral part of my experience here and has been a source of strength, joy, and wisdom. If not for him, I’m not sure I would have stayed a second week. He joked with me at dinner that I should stay a third–apparently that sort of thinking is how he “accidentally” become a monk himself 20 years ago–though doing so isn’t possible at this time. I told him I’ll try to visit the Plum Village monasteries in Asia instead if I end up heading back out that way this year.

There was a beautiful ceremony after dinner called the Rose Ceremony. It’s apparently a tradition for appreciating one’s parents that Thay stole on a trip to Japan many years ago. There was a recitation of what Thay wrote when his mother died, and an opportunity for children (and adults) to read love letters to their parents.

The tradition is sort of like mother’s or father’s day except that we pin a red rose to our shirts for each living parent we have and a white rose for each deceased parent. Walking around the hall realizing how many people I had gotten to know had one or even two white roses was a powerful moment of mindfulness for me. I shed a few tears of compassion for their loss and reflected on my gratitude to still have two living parents.

The Rose Ceremony ended with hugging meditation, a wholesome experience where we all went around hugging our friends and loved ones for 3 deep, mindful breaths each, really enjoying and appreciating their presence. I had many nice hugs with friends I made here, but the one that really touched me the most was the little French boy who I had promised to teach to play chess and for whom I went out of my way to keep that promise. He had such a happy and joyful look on his face when we found each other in the crowd and he offered me a hug. I knew in that moment how much my doing that had meant to him. I’m really glad to have touched his life.

I also had a similar experience a few minutes ago when a Mexican teenager to whom I had taught some opening- and mid-game chess strategy noticed me writing this by the light of the bell tower and came up to personally thank me. I offered him a hug and asked him to keep playing and maybe even win a few games for me.

It’s time to sleep now as I need to pack and depart tomorrow. I’ll be returning to Bordeaux for a few days of sightseeing before 5 weeks in Lyon. My experience here in Plum Village was powerful and memorable. I understand now why so many people here have come back year after year. Perhaps one day I’ll be the same. Perhaps I’ll meet these friends here again.

Day 14 – Friday, July 20, 2018

(This entry is written after the fact based on some memories and conversations I had before leaving Plum Village on Friday, but which I felt were an important part of this narrative.)

I left Plum Village today and am now back in Bordeaux. The morning went mostly as I’d have expected: lots of goodbyes with friends as people left throughout the morning. Then lots more goodbyes as I prepared to leave myself.

I’m going to miss many of my friends from Plum Village, especially the ones that I know struggle more with certain things that either I’ve seen myself struggle with, or that I’ve seen people I love struggle with. Many of my friends here have expressed hardship with difficult human emotional experiences like anger (towards self, towards others, towards the world), anxiety, depression, self-confidence/self-love. I am at least grateful that I had a chance to be in their lives, however briefly, to listen compassionately and offer my love and support. Many of them are staying in Plum Village longer-term, either for the entire summer retreat, or even longer as volunteers. I can’t think of a better place for them to heal.

Before I left, I had a really fruitful conversation with one of the aspirants, who came to find me and follow-up on the question I asked during the Q&A about the tension between love/acceptance and action/change. I always enjoy chatting with this particular aspirant because he and I actually share a very similar background–we both graduated from Stanford, I think not too long ago; we both graduated with technical degrees that led us to work for the US government for some time; we both got involved in tech in Silicon Valley. I’d be surprised if he and I didn’t actually already have some mutual friends. It’s one thing to meet someone who aspires to become a monk but is completely different from me, and quite another to meet someone who I realize could very easily have been myself.

Anyway, he asked me what I thought of the answer I received during the Q&A. Apparently he recognized the somewhat crestfallen and dissatisfied look on my face at the end of the answer–a feeling I’m sure he’s shared more than once during his long stay in Plum Village. We ended up having an interesting discussion, grounded first in concepts we had both learned about self-love, self-acceptance, and self-growth and then generalized from there to see if we could understand how those concepts relate to loving and accepting the world while also potentially transforming it.

One of the large conclusions we drew was that both in self-love and in loving the world a sense of total love and acceptance does imply letting go of the need for uglier things to change or disappear. We both agreed, however, that the act of total acceptance in this way has a very meaningfully and very powerfully changes those things, so acceptance itself is an action of sorts. The difficulty here, however, is that one cannot choose to love and accept themselves with the intent that doing so will effect change because that very intent carries with it a lack of true love and true acceptance. I think the same can be said of loving the world.

The other thing I took from our conversation is that this love and acceptance for the negatives need not necessarily conflict with our positive aspirations. Often, getting to where we want to go involves accepting and transforming what’s already within us while simultaneously cultivating something new.

Me with Thay Phap Dung, an incredibly light-hearted and wise Buddhist monk living in Upper Hamlet, Plum Village.

I was very appreciative of our conversation. I felt like it gave me the resolution I had hoped for in the Q&A. I should admit also that this was the first conversation after which I had the serious thought that perhaps the idea of becoming a monk could be appealing for someone like me. After all, someone who thinks very similarly to me is doing it and I now see that his commitment to monkhood has given him access to helpful things like a mentor who reads his journal and helps him to see where he is struggling in his development. It’s also clear to me that he, like I, is interested in understanding what the concept of enlightenment might mean in practice rather than just in theory. Becoming an aspirant and, ultimately, a monk effectively makes pursuing this understanding his full-time job. I am, however, not yet convinced that becoming a monk is the only way to create the space and time to pursue this understanding. For now at least, I think becoming a Buddhist monk isn’t in my cards.

I said goodbye to Thay Phap Dung today. I caught him on his way out of the dining hall with his lunch. I just wanted to tell him how grateful I was for him, for his kindness, for his compassion, for his joy, and for his teachings. He invited me to eat my last lunch in Plum Village with him. I hope to meet this man again somewhere and someday, and I aspire to learn how to exude joy and compassion from a place of deep centeredness the way he has.

I’ve been able to maintain my mindful state today, even in the outside world. I found that on the train and on the tram to get to my new accommodations I was very calm, very unhurried, and actually just happy to sit and enjoy the ride rather than feel the need to automatically pull out my phone and occupy myself in some way. Hopefully I’ll continue to be mindful in the coming days, weeks, and months.

In leaving, I am not the same person I was when I arrived and in subtle ways I see the world differently now. I didn’t love everything about my experience in Plum Village, but on the whole it was incredible and I very much want to continue practicing what I learned. It’s hard to say how the future will unfold and where I’ll go, but I think it’s likely that I will be back to Plum Village, if not to the monastery in France then perhaps to the affiliated ones in Asia or America. As Thay Phap Dung joked before I left, perhaps my stay in Plum Village wasn’t a break from the outside world as much as the outside world is now a break between stays in Plum Village.

Footnotes

Bell tower, Upper Hamlet, Plum Village
As a self-professed agnostic, I’m not a terribly religious, spiritual, or superstitious person. In fact, I’ve spent much of my life incredibly skeptical of both religions and religious practitioners. My skepticism was so strong that if you had told me 5 years ago that I would one day spend not one, but two full weeks in a Buddhist monastery, I think I probably would have done a spit take. And yet, in July of this year I did just that (minus the spit take) and, though I didn’t love everything about the experience, it was pretty incredible overall. Of course, this change in perspective didn’t exactly happen overnight.

Meditation

It all started when my father discovered meditation while I was in college. He found it helpful to him in his everyday life, and introduced my mother to it, who also took a liking to the practice. Together, they practiced a form of transcendental meditation, which often makes use of the stereotypical mantra that most people think of when they picture meditation. As parents are liable to do when they find something they think is good for them, my parents started trying to get their kids–my little sister and I–interested, telling us about the researched positive side-effects of meditation such as reduced stress response and a resistance to mental conditions like anxiety and depression. As children are liable to do when their parents tell them to do something, my sister and I both did the opposite. We went so far as to make fun of our parents for the way they would meditate, repeating their mantras back to them in mocking tones. I became very resistant to meditation and to the idea of meditating because the form of meditation my parents practiced was closely tied to Indian spiritual and religious practices. Over time, I had developed an automatically suspicious response toward anything remotely religious or spiritual. I used to think of religious faith and dogma as nearly synonymous, and I’ve always refused to accept ideas from people who are unwilling or unable to think for themselves or who might discourage me from doing the same. To me, if a belief or an idea is really worth keeping, it must survive the scrutiny of reasoned doubt, and it must continue to survive that scrutiny as new information becomes available. I could never have respect for, let alone faith in, a leader or a deity who might punish those who seek to draw their own conclusions or find their own answers. For many years I boycotted meditation, unable to extricate its true value from the religious leanings of my parents’ practice. I saw meditation as a spiritual practice and wanted nothing to do with it. It wasn’t until my senior year of college that I discovered an entirely secular form of meditation called mindful meditation. One of my acquaintances on Facebook had a spare coupon code for a free one-month subscription to a mindful meditation app called Headspace. To give away the coupon, he challenged his friends on Facebook to do Headspace’s free 10-day foundational series, and offered to raffle off the coupon to one of the people who did so and reported back to him. This was the first time I had heard someone other than my parents advocate for meditation, so on a whim, I downloaded Headspace to try it out. To my surprise, I was really intrigued by my first 10 days of Headspace. In fact, I don’t think I would be exaggerating in claiming that those 10 days started me down a path that would drastically change my life for the better. That introduction framed meditation as a mental exercise rather than a spiritual experience, and helped to dispel many of my false preconceptions about the practice. Since the guy who issued the Headspace coupon challenge on Facebook was a mere acquaintance, I never actually told him that I was inspired by his giveaway, but I ended up buying myself a subscription to Headspace on my own and continued to practice.

Mindfulness

Through meditating in the Headspace way, I’ve learned about mindfulness, which could perhaps best be described as the opposite of mindlessness. You know when you’re driving a car and you suddenly realize you’ve been on autopilot for the last 30 minutes while you thought about something totally unrelated and, often, really not that important? Or when you open a bag of chips for a small snack but before you realize it you’ve emptied the bag? Or the itch you get to pull out your smartphone anytime the world in front of you fails to provide the stimulating experience you’ve grown to expect? These phenomenons are good examples of what I would describe as mindlessness: a lack of awareness of and presence with wherever we are, whoever we’re with, or whatever we’re doing in the moment.

Benefits of Mindfulness

Without realizing it, many of us spend a large proportion of our lives in a relatively mindless state. While that’s not necessarily a terrible thing in all cases–multitasking, for example, can sometimes be beneficial though it necessitates a degree of mindlessness in dividing our limited consciousness–I’ve learned through practicing that there are appealing benefits to mindfulness as an alternative such as self-awareness of habits and patterns along with more initiative to change them; a resistance to getting caught up in the kinds of thoughts and emotions that otherwise lead people to anxious or depressive states; a heightened appreciation for the small things in life, leading to a higher average sense of joy and well-being; increased presence, which may correlate with charisma, focus, and flow among other things; and a greater sense of self-acceptance, and acceptance of others. Sounds a little like snake oil, doesn’t it? Fortunately, there are a number of studies backing up the positive health and mental health benefits of meditation and mindfulness. Even without those studies, though, many of these effects make sense to me. At its core, mindfulness is about training our awareness so that we become practiced at recognizing when we’re distracted. Overtime as I’ve gotten better and better at noticing this during mindfulness exercises, I’ve begun to internalize the skill. With training, I find that I become distracted less often, and that when I do become distracted, I notice more quickly than I used to.
Cover of The Charisma Myth

Cover of The Charisma Myth by Olivia Fox Cabane

As a result of this awareness, I’m more likely to notice, and have the wherewithal to stop myself, when I’m about to take a habitually self-distracting or even self-destructive action (e.g. opening Facebook or Reddit). I’m less prone to get caught up in the negative thought and emotional loops that lead to anxious or depressive cycles because I notice when the loops start and am able to make the conscious choice to refocus on the present when it’s clear the current line of thinking can’t possibly lead anywhere good. At the same time, I fear my negative emotions less because I have come to realize that, like my breath and all things, all of my emotions are transient, and will come and go in their own time so long as I don’t get overly involved in them. When I’m aware, I start to notice and appreciate more of the little things in life like how blue the sky is today or how green the trees are–sort of the mindfulness equivalent of “stopping to smell the roses”–creating a sense of profound gratefulness and joy just to be alive. I’ve also noticed that charisma, as Olivia Fox Cabane claims in The Charisma Myth, has its basis in being fully present with people–people like being around people who offer the gift of their full attention and presence, which makes them feel important, special, heard, and understood–that presence and focus are nearly synonymous, and that flow–that sense of being on a roll when we’re working–is a byproduct of creating a working environment where we’re able to be totally present with what we’re doing.

Mindfulness in Many Forms

Mindfulness comes in many shapes and forms. Yoga, rock climbing, martial arts, and other physical activities that demand the full presence of our minds in unison with our bodies are other common forms of mindfulness that many people practice without realizing it. Improv, acting, public speaking, and other mental activities that require us to be completely present in order to succeed are also hidden forms of mindfulness. In reality, meditation is just one of the many forms of mindfulness, but it also turns out to be one of the most portable and readily accessible methods available to us. In its most basic form, meditation is mindfulness applied to our breathing. It’s the art of being as close to completely present with the act of breathing as we can–following the cool rush of air through our nostrils, the expansion of our lungs as we fill them, the natural extension of our abdomens with each breath. Learning to be mindful while breathing may not sound terribly useful or fun in comparison to activities like yoga or improv, but the advantage is that if you are a living, conscious human being, you can always breathe. You may not always be in a place where doing yoga stretches is appropriate, or where you have people to play improv with, but you will always have your breath–if you don’t, you have bigger problems to worry about than reading this; please pick up the phone and dial 9-1-1 or your local equivalent :). Meditation doesn’t have to involve all these things people imagine like sitting in a full lotus position, or pinching your fingers into the stereotypical O-shape, or incessantly repeating “Om”, or even closing our eyes. It can be done virtually anywhere and virtually anytime by simply noticing and following our breath. While we don’t really need to practice breathing the way we may need to practice yoga or improv–most all of us pop out of the womb as experts in breathing already–learning to recognize when we’ve become distracted or lost our focus is a very useful skill applicable to nearly everything we do. This is the primary skill that we train when we meditate, or when we actively practice mindfulness, and it turns out to be a pretty difficult skill for most people to master, especially as our attention spans grow shorter and our lives get busier in the digital information age.

Other Benefits of Meditation

Mindfulness is actually just one of many skills that we can train through meditation, and the others I’ve found are equally powerful and profound. For example, once we get more accustomed to being mindful of the breath, or even just being present with the act of meditation, we can learn to introduce things like visualization into the practice. As human beings, one of the mental super powers we have is the ability to replay past feelings and emotions through our memories as if we are experiencing them in the present. With practice, this means that we always have access to frame of mind we need for the task at hand. In my daily uncertain and sometimes anxiety-inducing life as a nomadic solo entrepreneur, I use this often to help me reconnect to a sense of hope, love, and optimism so that I can avoid making decisions out of despair, anger, or fear, which I know I’m likely to later regret. But I digress. All of this is to say that mindful meditation was an important discovery for me, and that this discovery was a crucial first step in what led me to a Buddhist monastery. While I discovered mindfulness years ago, the other important developments are more recent.

Anger and Buddhism

I have and have almost always had a difficult relationship with my parents. They never got along with each other, and as a result I always had a hard time getting along with them. I picked up a lot of bad habits and emotional patterns from childhood as well. Most notably, my sister and I are the heirs to my mother’s temper. After I quit my job in Silicon Valley, moved out of my house, and said goodbye to virtually everyone I knew, I moved back in with my parents for about 6 months before I finally pulled the trigger and started traveling. Though I took care of myself and did well in school, I was never a terribly obedient child, in part because I recognized my parents’ inevitably flawed nature very early in life and questioned both their authority and infallibility. Many of these old patterns resurfaced when I came home, and as one might expect, the occasional argument ensued. In the wake of one particularly heated argument, I remember angrily shutting myself in my room. Desperate for answers and for a solution to what felt like a never-ending cycle of rage and hurt in my family, I went to Amazon’s book section and searched “anger” (I do this often when I identify sticking points in my life :P). I bought the first few results and was particularly drawn to Anger by Thich Nhat Hanh.
Cover of Anger by Thich Nhat Hanh

The cover of Anger by Thich Nhat Hanh

Anger was one of my first true exposures to Buddhism and to Thich Nhat Hanh, who I would later learn is a famous Vietnamese Zen Buddhist master and Nobel peace prize nominee. Mindfulness turned out to be a central tenet of Thich Nhat Hanh’s teachings, and it would not be far from truth to claim that the flavor of Buddhism he teaches is the natural philosophical extension of what it might look like if the principles behind mindfulness defined an individual’s entire way of life. Through reading just the first few chapters of Anger, I was introduced to the beginnings of a few important insights, which I would eventually develop further during my time at the monastery: that I was angry because I was hurt; that my parents get angry and hurt me because they are, themselves, hurting; that because I am their genetic continuation, try as I might I’m not so different or so separate from them; that hurting my parents with my anger because I am hurt will only ever cause them to continue hurting me in turn; and that my parents are, themselves, victims of their parents’ and their parents’ parents’ pain, some of which has almost certainly been transmitted for generations as a kind of twisted, unresolved emotional heirloom. In the first few chapters of Anger, Thich Nhat Hanh also mentions Plum Village, which piqued my interest. By the power of Google, I discovered that Plum Village is a mindfulness practice center not far from Bordeaux, France that Thich Nhat Hanh founded in 1982. I also learned that Plum Village opens itself to the public during certain times of the year for mindfulness and meditation retreats. Because I was impressed by Thich Nhat Hanh’s writing and his ideas, this knowledge would become the seed that sprouted into my 2018 goal to attend a 2-week mindfulness retreat. Though I didn’t entirely connect the dots at the time, Plum Village would also turn out to be a Buddhist monastery home to 100-200 monks and nuns hailing from all corners of the world–Vietnam, America, Europe, Eastern Europe, and many more. I, of course, went in with the image of “mindfulness practice center” in my head–had I thought of it primarily as a Buddhist monastery, I’m not sure I would have gone.

Love and Buddhism

The last step, which reaffirmed my commitment to make my way to Plum Village, was traveling to Vietnam and falling in love. (Yes, I am aware of just how cliché that is.) My Vietnamese girlfriend blew me away during our first date by self-professing to be both a Stoic and a Buddhist–two surprisingly similar philosophies that had recently captured my interest, and which I was also exploring. For me, the connection was instant and almost spooky–I felt there almost couldn’t have been a better match unless she had literally stalked me before we met. Having been raised Buddhist in much the same way many Americans are raised Christian (i.e. a follower in name, but not really in spirit), she had a much longer history with Buddhism than I did. Recent events had led her to rediscover Buddhism on her own terms, so she had discovered Thich Nhat Hanh earlier than me and had already read most of his books. During our time together in Vietnam, she invited me to watch Walk With Me, a documentary about Plum Village narrated by Benedict Cumberbatch,
Movie poster for Walk With Me

The movie poster for Walk With Me, a documentary about Plum Village

and we passed many evenings talking about life and philosophy. Though Anger had given me a nice introduction and opened me up to Buddhist teachings, it quickly became true that I had learned almost everything I knew about Buddhism from her. What I learned fascinated me: Buddhism in its purest form is not a religion, but rather a philosophy that tries to unpack how the insights and practices that led the Buddha to enlightenment. In short, it’s a very practical philosophy that aims to provide framework for how to live a good life. Yes, there are more mystical components like reincarnation and karma ingrained in some Buddhist teachings, but even these can be interpreted in non-religious ways (e.g. reincarnation doesn’t necessarily occur in the literal sense that my consciousness will be reborn, but certainly occurs in the sense that all parts of what is “me” will be recycled and reused by the universe long after I am dead). More than knowledge, though, my Vietnamese girlfriend taught me much about what Buddhism looks and feels like in practice. With her, from her, and for her I learned what it means to love someone with deep compassion and understanding, in the Buddhist way. While I had even been exploring books like Adult Children Of Emotionally Immature Parents and contemplating the idea of distancing myself from my parents as toxic influences in my life, she had acknowledged how and why her parents caused her suffering, and chose to love them anyway. When I returned to the States in May and was thrust into the middle of a vicious family conflict–this time between my sister and my mother–she was my guide in learning to view both sides of the conflict with compassion so that I might help them understand each other. Without her counsel, I know my instinct would have been to respond with anger, suspicion, and punishment rather than love, understanding, and forgiveness–I would simply have added fuel to the flames. Though our relationship ended in a rather messy way and under complicated circumstances, I remain eternally grateful to her for what she taught me. I think it’s even fair to say I still feel that deep Buddhistic sense of love and respect for her, though I’m convinced that she and I have important growth needs that couldn’t be met by our relationship, so I try not to remain attached to it. This is, however, a longer story about love, suffering, forgiveness, and compassion which is not yet–and perhaps never will be–anywhere near ready to be told in so public a fashion. When I finally made it to France, I made my way to Plum Village because I had promised myself I would; because it was a dream I had shared with my ex- to go; because I wanted to learn more about how to deepen my mindfulness practice; and because I knew there was much I could learn there about how to heal, both from the aftermath of my recent romantic relationship, and from the cycles of suffering extant in my familial relationships. I’ve made it part of my mission to end these cycles and learn to resolve my own suffering so that if I decide to have children someday I don’t unwittingly turn them into victims of my own, and my parents’ shortcomings. I’ve made it part of my mission to heal myself, and help the people I love heal, too. Plum Village did not disappoint. Stay tuned next week to read my reflections about my Plum Village experience. I plan to publish my journal from my time there in its almost-raw form, edited just for clarity and concision.

The last few months since my last entry in this series have been eventful, though, perhaps not terribly productive in a traditional sense. After a month of respite in California and then New York City, I have, at long last, made my way to France where I am endeavoring to reach conversational fluency in French while also making progress toward business profitability.

In the intervening months I have:

  • Become a licensed motorcyclist in the state of California

    A view of Half Dome in the distance in Yosemite Valley.

  • Organized a trip to Yosemite with many of my friends from Silicon Valley
  • Attended my sister’s graduation from NYU
  • Explored the wilderness in rural Pennsylvania
  • Stayed in Marseille, France for 2 weeks
  • Mastered driving a stick shift while driving thousands of kilometers across France to visit Lyon, Haut-Jura, Auxerre, Beaune, Dole, Dijon, Fontainebleau, Paris, Mont Saint-Michel, Tours, Amboise, and Chambord
  • Lived in Bordeaux, France for nearly 2 weeks
  • Taken on two small consulting projects with a potential third on the horizon
  • Attended 2 weeks of the summer mindfulness retreat at Plum Village
  • Gone from absolutely terrified to speak to anyone in French to being able to hold a reasonable conversation provided some effort on both sides

As is the nature of things, along the way many things have gone wrong including:

  • Having my prized Google Pixel 2 smartphone stolen while I watched the sunset in Marseille
  • Enduring a difficult and complicated breakup with my Vietnamese girlfriend (the circumstances of which, both for my privacy and out of respect for her, I won’t be elaborating on at this time)
  • Having my expensive and supposedly high quality Samsonite suitcase completely break in less than 6 months of—admittedly heavy—use

France

Fallingwater, a Frank Lloyd Wright house in rural Pennsylvania.

I, of course, have much to say about France in general, and the cities I’ve had the chance to get to know, but for concision—and for SEO :P—I’ve decided to separate these thoughts into a yet-to-be-written series of posts about what it’s actually like to be a nomad in different cities. In these posts I’ll aim to answer questions about the cost of living, finding internet and good places to work, securing housing, social outlets, and just cool things to see and do. I’ve found that there are lots of high-level resources like NomadList for nomads to choose new destinations, but there are never enough narratives to give life to the statistics, especially in less common and ostensibly less affordable destinations like the vast majority of Europe.

For now, it suffices to say that France is expensive and good internet is surprisingly hard to find. It doesn’t even begin to compare to how expensive it was in Silicon Valley, but it’s certainly 3-6 times more expensive than Southeast Asia, which I’m increasingly realizing has completely spoiled me. From a lifestyle perspective, I’ve found that since I’m not willing to pay 10€ for an average meal out, it’s advantageous to cook or buy simple picnic ingredients from grocery stores. In a funny way, I’ve been really pleased to find how much joy I can get out of a simple meal of bread, cheese, fruit, and a little bit of meat (<3€/meal). I find it liberating to learn how little I really need to be happy, which leaves me yet again questioning the typical American ethos of working hard for the sake of work or for the sake of money to purchase possessions which we often become convinced will somehow magically produce happiness and joy.

The view approaching Mont Saint-Michel during low-tide.

Despite its status as a first-world nation, internet infrastructure in France is surprisingly pitiful in comparison to Thailand and Vietnam. Perhaps this difference is more cultural than anything, but most French cafes are not very accommodating for those seeking a nice environment to hangout with coffee, power, and a good internet connection. Even those cafes which are more stereotypically configured for this use case (i.e. pretty much just Starbucks) have laughable speeds and questionable reliability. The coworking spaces are also typically much more expensive here (200-300€/month) than what I’ve become accustomed to finding in Asia (70-150€/month).

Learning French

I’ve spent much of my time on the ground here in France trying to take advantage of the immersive environment for learning French. On good days, I’ll find myself spending nearly 4 hours a day learning French with a mix of book studying, language exchange meet-ups, reverse and ladder trees on Duolingo, reading on LingQ (affiliate link!), listening to French podcasts (e.g. Coffee Break French), and re-watching my favorite Netflix series in French audio (sometimes with, sometimes without French subtitles).

Sometimes it’s hard to see the difference day-to-day, but reflecting on it I’ve realized my French has come a long way. When I got here, I experienced a sort of social anxiety around speaking to anyone because I was pretty terrified of embarrassing myself in French but didn’t want to speak English either. It used to be a big deal for me to even buy something small from a store in French and not go deer-in-headlights a little when someone asked me if I wanted a bag using a word for “bag” I had never learned before :P.

Now I’ve had a bit more experience and, though fast-talking native speakers still give me a lot of trouble, I’m finding I understand enough to hold reasonable conversations. I often have to stop and ask for a repetition or the meaning of a word or ask how to say a word in French, but I can do all of these things in French at this point. Sometimes I also still struggle with piecing my sentences together, but I’ve noticed that some sentences and sentence structures have become surprisingly fluent.

There’s a long way to go still, but I’ve been able to accomplish things like getting tourist information about a new city, teaching a child how to play chess, and holding a 45-minute introductory conversation with a fellow software engineer using nearly nothing but French. People are generally finding me understandable even when I struggle to express complex ideas. I think it’s fair to say that I’ve moved into a phase where I can now truly learn new words and phrases from real conversations with native speakers where we’re actually trying to get to know each other.

Plum Village

A close-up of the lotus pond in the Lower Hamlet of Plum Village.

I’ve just returned from 2 weeks at Plum Village, a Mindfulness Practice Center and Buddhist Monastery founded by the famous Vietnamese Zen Buddhist master Thich Nhat Hanh, a Nobel peace prize nominee (nominated by Martin Luther King, Jr.!) and an important advocate for peace during the Vietnam War. I was fortunate to find space at Plum Village—when I had checked originally it was completely booked. I ended up finding a way to nab a one-week stay in Plum Village, and then once I was there I found a way to extend my stay by an extra week.

A full accounting of my experience at Plum Village is also going to have to wait until next week. For now I’ll say that it was one of my goals this year to deepen my mindfulness practice, which is the primary reason why I made my way to Plum Village in the first place. All-in-all, my experience there was magnificent and I feel as if I view myself and the world differently in subtle but very important ways. I feel as if before I had only just scratched the surface of what mindfulness could do for me and now I’ve been exposed to its full potential. I’m more focused, more mindful, and more present than I ever was before. I’m increasingly aware of my own unmindful and potentially self-destructive habits and aware of important sources of unhappiness in my life which I’m now committed to resolving rather than perpetually avoiding. I feel more competent in handling my emotions and anxieties, including the stresses related to my current occupational choices. Time will tell how long these effects will stay with me.

Where I Am Now

The obelisk at the Place des Quinconces, near the center of Bordeaux.

I have returned to Bordeaux for a bit of sightseeing before I take a train to Lyon, the gastronomic capital of France, where I intend to spend my remaining 5 weeks in France before my Schengen tourist visa expires and I’m forced to migrate elsewhere. I’m excited to have my own apartment in Lyon after successfully negotiating the price down by ~25% from its listing price on AirBnB.

I haven’t made much progress on my own projects of late, and my lack of a live product continues to be a source of frustration for me. In the States, my time was focused on things I could only take care of while there or spending time with family. Since coming to France, much of my time initially was spent on dealing with the emotional fallout of my recent relationship or on learning French. The few times I’ve taken the time to open my code editor and start to work on Serenity, I’ve found it overwhelming to consider the amount of remaining effort to launch the product along with the potentially low likelihood of a successful outcome.

I must admit that prior to going to Plum Village, my mood had been fluctuating and occasionally visiting some deep lows. The combination of emotional stressors from my recent breakup along with the anxieties involved with having to speak French and starting to get back into my own work was a lot to handle, and I’d guess that I came the closest I’d ever been to wanting to abandon my present course. I knew the emotions would pass however, and, somewhat serendipitously, in my lowest week I had two people reach out to me in the same day asking if I’d be willing to consider some short-term work on a consulting basis. I’ve agreed to one, and am still working out the details of the other, which may involve my returning to Asia later this year. I’m also currently helping my little sister implement an online portfolio for her creative work so that she can use it as a resource to send to potential employers. Helping her get situated in her post-graduate life in this way was one of the gifts I offered her upon graduating.

La Cité du Vin, an ultra-modern museum all about the history and culture of wine in Bordeaux.

Having outside work recently has helped a lot to remind me that I have a valuable skill set in high demand and that I’m good at what I do. I’ve found it comforting to have a few more concrete and complete projects to show for my time (now almost a full year!) being self-employed. Combined with the emotional bolstering of my experience in Plum Village, I’m back in a good place and am excited for the challenge of learning to apply mindfulness to my unorthodox lifestyle.

The “Plan”

In my remaining 5 weeks in France, I’m hoping to wrap up work for my sister (her dream job was just posted, so we’re now operating on a clock), potentially take on another small project for an existing client, work out details for another potentially larger project for a new client, and attempt to launch Serenity to at least friends and family if not to public beta. All the while, it will continue to remain a high priority to make use of my time in France to improve my French.

I’m still exploring the possibilities, there’s a possibility that an opportunity will bring me back to Asia after France in mid-September or early October. I’m thinking that in the intervening time I may go to Morocco as originally planned, though I haven’t chosen a city yet (Essaouira maybe?). If I end up back in Asia, it probably makes sense to stay for a number of months, so I’m considering returning to Thailand, visiting India and Nepal, spending some time in Hong Kong or Malaysia, or even living in Taiwan or rural Japan for a few months to learn languages. If the opportunity doesn’t shake out the right way, I’ll likely spend 3 full months in Morocco continuing to work on my French before considering a return to France or moving on to South America.

I’m finding I plan less and less far ahead travel-wise, and this no longer makes me anxious the way it would have last year. In fact, the flexibility this sort of seat-of-pants traveling has afforded me seems to have far outweighed the possible price increases from last-minute bookings (at least on everything other than air travel).